The superfast Mu-mu (moomoo?) Also known as my dressing gown.

You may think I am totally kidding about the mu-mu thing but no, it really looks(ed?) like one.  However, it is almost the most phenomenal comfortable stupid looking thing in the world.

You may be wondering WHY I wanted to make one in the first place; who sees me in my undress enough to wear a dressing gown at events?  Well..remember this? Yeah. So I need to cover up and wearing the Doctors filthy banyan is not really ideal for pretty lil' ol' me.  I made the decision to whip together a new over garment the Monday or Tuesday before a Friday talk I had to do here in Nashville. 

Those who know me well enough will realize this is not an uncommon thing for me to do.  At least this time it was something as simple as a Dressing gown and not a full blown 1812 wardrobe.  I'm sort of learning.  So I had a few inspiration pieces scoured from the internet, but none of them REALLY appealed to me.  You would be amazed at how few extant early 19th century dressing gowns are still around.  Perhaps it is due to the frequency in being worn.  I had one labeled "dressing gown" on my Regency Inspiration pinterest board but it looks more like a nightgown.  So no.  I sort if just made something up with a general "old time-y robe" feeling, hoping none of the little old ladies or anyone else who sees me in it will call me on it.  I got a wonderful gift of five yards of this beautiful cotton damask with a dark gold back ground and lighter gold print of florals, foxes, birds, stags, and hounds spread all over it, which delighted me. 

I threw together the messiest and quickest mock up ever; it really didn't need to be special after-all its a rather shapeless garment. (I cheated and used a template made from my spencer pattern.)

The mock up took a bit of tweaking; and in the end I chose not to use this collar, for one thing it didn't work like I had hoped and for another it looks TERRIBLE. So I went with just a typical fold down collar as seen on a couple of my spencers, stolen lovingly from my 1890s riding habit jacket. I think outside the box.

I threw the majority of it together in an evening, and wow that fabric is heavy when gathered.  Since I had so much of it, I was able to play and use the animals as I saw fit; I placed a fox in the center of the back of the gown, a stag on the left and a hound on the right. (or vice versa, I don't know, I'm not looking at it.)

You can see here why it was dubbed the mu-mu. Oy.

 

 

 

 

 

close up showing the little fox.

 After I made the Doctor his banyan, I swear he lived in it most of the winter.  Now I know why. I have never really had a satisfactory bath robe.  Having sort of one now is so delightful.  I made sure to put bit loose sleeves on it so that I would be comfortable and have a full range of motion.  The armsceyes are a little tight under the arm, but due to the construction it isn't something I can really fix, and it isn't bothersome to the point of madness.  When I finished it, I promptly donned it to prance around the house in. Pants? PSH. I have a dressing gown.

 

 

One of my work stations.  The sofa. I have all I need; computer, soft drink, and toast.

I think the next step is to add a belt, I picked up a big horn buckle from Textile Fabrics, and will make a self fabric belt just under the bust to hold it closed, and give it a little bit of shape.  Though I look about 9 months pregnant no matter what I do.

Stay tuned for the saga of the Frock Coat of Tears and Foul Language!

(And some possible butt shots. Thanks, Doctor.)

Because everyone wants their feet to be sexy. (And they want to know it, too.)

The mastermind of sexy-footisms, Ms. Am-Duch, is at it again, folks! For those readers of mine who are NOT followers of the amazing Lauren Reeser, you are giant slackers and you need to fix that. Now. Go. Follow the rabbit hole into AWESOMENESS.

Anyhow, she is out with a new wonderful, beautiful, stunning, and really smexy pair of shoes, the Pompadour! 

Get them while they are hot, ladies and gents, for if not enough orders go through, no one will have them, and that, my friends, is a damn crying shame.  You know you want to wear these with modern skirts/dresses/or whateverthehellyouwant.  Really, I would.  Same with the Astorias.

And my favorite? It is a close tie with the Kensingtons and the Pemberlies! Both of which are perfect for each of my re-enacting eras, and hello comfort! (Secretly? MUCH better than Fugawee for a much lower price!)

SO GET ON IT AND SPEND SOME OF THAT TAX REFUND DOUGH! (if, of course, you a. got any, or b. have any left.)

A remake that will never end. And channeled Kermit the Frog.

Some gowns have such a powerful addicting draw, that you can't help but want to constantly work on them.  They fill your dreams (if you're lucky enough to sleep) or you lay awake for HOURS thinking of what to do next or what to do to make this costume even more stunning or interesting.

Then there are some that fail enough times and must be redone so often that they lose all luster and all you want to do is throw them into a pit.  Poor archery gown.  She is in that situation now.

Those who lurk and stalk me in other methods and who know me closer remember this archery gown.  It is another one of those that I started for my first trip to see the Doctor, back in 2010.  It was a good gown, in theory, but had some fit issues.  For one, I made it much too tight and I was uncomfortable most of the day, in fact about halfway through, post the archery contest, I had a heat related incident..and talk about serious embarrassment..the poor Doctor, I am sure he thought I was incredibly frail!

After the event I threw it into a box with the rest of my costumes when I was moving out to TN, and didn't wear it again until a year later, at the second 100 years.  Of course this is post when I cut out the lining of Ol Faithful, so I did it with this gown as well.  That was a horrible, horrible idea. I wore it paired with a floral summer weight redingote style of garment, which probably saved me mass headache in the end.  I really hate that outfit by the bye..I felt like I looked like a fool that whole day.  Not at all bad-ass and archerish like the year before.

I did a full day of archery, got my ass handed to me deservedly since I didn't practice for a whole year solid.  Then we danced.  Then I ran around some more.  Then we danced AGAIN that evening.  I kept feeling a popping sound whenever I would move my right arm in big motions, and just assumed it was the stupid pelisse..Nope. My right sleeve on the green gown had come almost completely out, and was hanging on by maybe a half inch.  Oops.   Then, when hunting for a missing arrow I got on my hands and knees to see if what I kicked was an arrow.  It wasn't, and my dress was ruined as I kneeled in something wet and put a stain on the front.

So that was that, when I got home I took the thing completely apart.  Luckily for me, there was enough fabric in the back to completely make a new gown, and I have been slowly.

I decided on a bodice similar to Ol Faithful, and wanted vandyked trim wherever I could put it, so I began that horrible laborious process of making a template and cutting and cutting and cutting....and cutting. 

"Hello, Kermit the Frog here." No? Yeah? Anyone else besides me see it?

Then I began to roll the hem of the vandykes thinking it would totally keep its shape! I was so wrong.  I couldn't STAND how it looked, so I thought well I can cut more and sew a two layer right side to right side.  I got halfway trough that and said no, this is also garbage. Finally, I cut off all the triangles, and will be making a SINGLE ruffle, as I do not have adequate yardage to do anymore.

At this point I am beginning to despise this gown and I have just forgotten about it..randomly doing some more inches on the rolled hem and loathing the process completely.  Don't you just hate it when projects must take a drastic detour?  I think this mishap may be the reason that I am so tentative to cut into another gown.  Some fabric I can never get my hands on again; it was purchased in Los Angeles in February. Eeep.

Living in the past: One ripped seam at a time.

Lately I have begun to do something so very Regency-eqsue; taking apart an old gown and making it up new.  Though, this time, instead of making it up new to follow fashions or pretty-ing it up, I did it because my skill and knowledge so drastically increased (compared to a couple years ago I feel).  The first thing to get taken apart was Ol' Faithful.  Y'all might remember Ol' Faithful as the gown I wore the first event I ever went to with The Doctor.

100 Years on the Ohio, 2010

Learning how to shoot a longbow, 100 yrs 2010 w/Mrs. Cooper

Preparing to mutilate cupid!

Shown here with the first Spencer I ever made, at Rock Castle

The gown itself wasn't BAD, and actually went through a first step transformation; at first the bodice had complete lining and a hanging skirt lining, which I cut out to more appropriately portray the sheer gowns worn with the proper under things, and changed the sleeves which were much too short in its first incarnation. It was also back closing with hooks and bars, and not the best at staying closed..

Not a great photo of the gown, but I am wearing it after I cut out the lining but before changing the sleeves.

With the new longer sleeves added here.  This was me, freezing my butt off and giving an Undressing talk at Muster on the Wabash.  Not ideal climes for getting naked.

Then, over the winter, I purchased the most wonderful book in the world, which has been my inevitable downfall: Costume in Detail.  If you do not already purchase this book, BUY IT NOW. GO. AND. BUY. IT. I poured over the pages like a hungry bum starved for inspiration and then I got thoughts...wonderful shiny thoughts about taking apart my white ball gown to scrap the fabric to remake Ol' Faithful, since they were both made out of the same wonderful 2 dollar a yard fabric.

Lets all have a moment of silence for the first ball gown I made for 1812. She did her job well. And continues to in another incarnation.

I finally settled on this gem.  

I unfortunately do not have any in progress photos, as it was made before I decided to start this blog again.  I spent FOUR. DAYS. hand rolling the double flounce at the hem, and I wanted to kill myself at the end.  I also cut down the train CONSIDERABLY, but it still has some length.  I have given though to shortening the train from the top back, as it doesn't really follow the fashion pertaining to the garment.  I also didn't do 4 draw-strings at the neckline, there was really no need to.  I ended up doing only one, for time's sake and sanity, and since I draped the pattern on Abigail I had to sort of wing it, my draping skills are not very good.

Some pictures RIGHT after she was re-made, close enough to "in progress" since you get details shots.

Full body with sleeve detail shown. Don't mind the unwashed hair.

View of the train, and sleeves.

Back detail, and yes I have since fixed that annoying back issue.

detail of the front.  See how sheer? Mmmm

Here are some pictures of it in action, Ol' Faithful re-vamped and looking stellar, if I may say so.  Also, shameless vanity stroking.

At Whickland Estate shown with my super amazing warm Pelisse.  More on it later.

At Kalamazoo with the amazing beautiful Samantha of Couture Courtesan

At Whickland Estate, photo taken by the amazing Mark Selter

As you can see, the sleeves don't get very much viewing..which is alright by me.  Stay tuned for another post about me remaking the olive green archer gown! (Still in progress, too!)

I didn't set fire to anything, that is impressive, right?

So the breeches are finished.  I have maybe one or two bits of editing in the way of hand stitching but other than that, it is all done with.  Here, I have a picture dump for some finished shots with the Doctor in them.

Look at how dapper he is.

 

 

 

Yeah this is pretty much how I felt on completion.

Up next I get to tackle the frock coat. For now, though, he is set to give his talk at Historic Locust Grove on Sunday, April 22nd.  Hope to see some of you there!

S. Stitchery

Is there such thing as Breechesbane? It's like Wolfsbane, but not.

Until the past few weeks, I have never made a pair of breeches in my life.  I had the ill-fated incident with the Jodhpurs, which made me vow to never sew for anyone again, especially pants.  But how can I say no to this?  

Lookit how good he looks.  Besides, he made my blog pretty.

He requested in his most winning manner if I could make him a royal navy uniform. Now, before this, I made him two 1812 waistcoats with very little fuss and bother – I like making those!  Be-crotched garments, on the other hand, not as much.  I had an inward battle with myself on whether or not to do it or to farm it out, but I was feeling cocky so guess where that landed me? Yep. Breeches town.

By now, I have gotten them drafted, mock up’d, fought with, put together with the unwavering help, patience, and humor of Mr. Ramsey, and am this week putting the finishing touches on them.  By that I mean buttons and button holes.  I hate button holes.  And no, I am not doing them by hand because unlike Mr. Ramsey, I do not have the amazing talent for hand-sewn ones.  So I opted for machine done.  One day I will make a new pair for the Doctor, and they will have hand done button holes.  Anyhow, back onto how evil button holes are. 

You are the devil.

Actually, let us go further back.  These breeches have been the complete BANE of my existence.  They have fought against being made more than anything else I have done.  It brings to mind this wonderful Mitch Hegberg joke about the one complicated payment in the four easy payments method.  This has been the complicated one.  Where everything has gone wrong.  Though no one got shot to death, and there was no wampum involved. 

So this is what I have had left to do; button holes on the knees, button holes on the waistband, button holes on the fall front, and then the eyelets in the back.  The Doctor is very good at sewing on buttons AND hand sewing eyelets, surprisingly.  So I make him do it whenever I can. 

The Doctor's black breeches, made by the amazing Lynn Graham, without them this would have been impossible.  Shown here displaying the extra at the bottom which goes under the knee band.

the sad extra tably bit. Technical term.

During the venture in the knee band area, I discovered after I cut off the first ones that the bottom did indeed need the extra tab under the band part, so that the band did not gap in a strange way and show off garter belt in stocking.  So I had the pleasure of throwing on some extra little pieces, that luckily are not seen at all unless you are playing around with the knee on the breeches.  And in that instance you better be my clone or ready to get your ass handed to you.  Or Mr. Ramsey, who at times has been very snug with the Doctor through this process.

Mr. Ramsey and the Doctor being cozy

I hope to get all the buttons I have sewn on tonight, and get some more cheapy ones from Joanne’s tomorrow to sew on the inside for his bracers.  I am so close I can taste it.  And I will never ever make another pair of breeches again.  Trousers?  Sure.  Breeches?  NO.

S. Stitchery.

-Tap tap- Is this thing on? Check?

You kids know what this means! I'M BACK! Yes, cower in fear, or jump for joy, or whatever else it is you feel like doing in this news.  I have a lot of things to share and a lot of things to post, I have a giant wardrobe for 1812 that needs to be fleshed out, idea-ized (yes that is a thing) and posted about.

I have realized, and at the recent urging of a lot of my wonderful costume friends, that I need a platform in which to organize my costume ideas, styles, plates, and extant garments to which the giant stack of fabric beside my sewing table needs to be made into.

I look forward to re-documenting my adventures, blood, sweat, tears, and rage (have I mentioned rage) that goes along with the sewing.

Oh yeah, and I live in Nashville, have an amazing boyfriend here, and take off my clothes in front of complete strangers for money (in a socially acceptable manner, of course.)  I have four beautiful wonderful pseudo step-daughters, and live probably the most wonderful and amazing life, EVER.

Love always, Me.

p.s. I got you interested in the taking off clothes thing, didn't I?  Here, you dirty pervs.