In any case, here is June!
Plate
36: Promenade Costume.
A
round robe of plain jaconot muslin, with a border of needle-work at the feet. A
roman coat (1) of violet shot sarsnet, with pointed cape, binding and
tassels of jonquil (2) silk. A parisian cap of sarsnet, same as the
pelisse, ornamented with a broad braid of jonquil silk, and a fancy flower (3) placed
towards the left side. A veil of fine what lace, thrown negligently over
the head-dress shading the throat (4), and falling on the shoulders.
Half-boots of violet kid or french kid. Gloves of jonquil kid.
A
round high walking dress of fine oblique corded muslin (5), with high arched
collar, trimmed with a narrow full edging of muslin or plain net lace, and
finished with the feet with narrow tucks. A roman helmet (6) of sea green
sarsnet, caught up in the center of the forehead. A grecian drapery scarf
of sea green sarsnet, parasol to correspond. Shoes of similar colored kid.
Blossom-colored reticule and primrose or pale tan gloves. (7)
(1)
It seems that roman
I influences have become fashionable again; almost as if it is a fashionable
standby if there is nothing else exciting and novel to call upon.
(2)
Jonquil is a shade of yellow
(3)
I have never seen this term “fancy
flower” before and have yet to see it again. Any ideas from onlookers?
(4)
The term “negligently” in this makes me
laugh. During this period women would often spend hours at their dressing table
in a practice called “studies negligence”, the art form of making it look as
though you are so fashionable you can throw anything on and not worry too much
about how it looked, though there was a very fine line in it looking good, or
shabby and TOO studied.
(5) "Oblique" means generally not straight, not parallel or perpendicular. So the cords are at an angle.
(6)
See also number one
Plate
37: Description of five head-dresses.
No.
1, on the left at top. The beehive hat of lemon-colored chip, or pearl
straw, with small angola feather waving in front. This hat, it should be
remembered, seems exclusively to belong to the very youthful female.
No.
2, on the right at top. A promenade head-dress, consisting of a simple
cottage bonnet of white satin, ornamented with a persian rose in front. A
long mantilla veil, of white lace, thrown entirely over the whole.
No.
3, in the center. An evening head-dress, composed of the antique or old
English fly-cap, formed of crimson shot silk, finished at the edge with two
rows of fine pearls or beads, and a star or small rosette in front. None
but the white robe can display this unique and elegant head-dress to advantage.
No.
4, on the left at bottom. The hamlet hat of straw or chip, tied under the
chin with white ribbon, and ornamented with two curled ostrich feathers, waving
towards one side. This head dress belongs to the morning or walking
costume.
No.
5, on the right at bottom. A carriage head-dress. A full band of turban
muslin, sitting close to the side of the face. A flemish bonnet of white
satin, edged with a raised chenille border and ornamented in front with small
jonquil flower. This head-dress is at once unique, fashionable, and
simply elegant.
It was really great to have this in my journal this month. Hats in french magazines are very popularly made, but it is harder to find them in English publications. These are really a great selection too, really up my alley. I have also discovered that in reading these at least for 1811, carriage dress really hardly calls for a hat, which I suppose makes perfect sense - you are not promenading, and sometimes space is at a premium, so a big hat or hat at all is not necessary, but some sort of head covering it; a turban, a veil, a cap, whatever. It is also interesting to see an age requirement on a garment, much like today, in mention to the "beehive" hat. I wonder how youthful they mean because I have one similar :p. The one thing I am not clear on is what is a "fly-cap?" If any of my readers might have an idea, do let me know!
General observations
The
fashionable world, at present, displays an appearance more consonant with our
best feelings and more agreeable to the eye of taste, than it has latterly been
accustomed to do. From the close morning dress to the airy attire of the
ball room everything is simple and interesting, and nothing can exceed the
beauty of the mode of dressing the hair, or the propriety and prettiness of all
the ornaments of the head. This general eulogium however, requires
qualification. What is here said, related to externals only.
Externals! I think I hear my fair readers claim. What airs is Mr.
Arbiter Elegantiarum going to give himself now? In the name of every thing
female and fashionable, what has he to do with anything but externals? Do not
be alarmed, my gentle friends; I am not going to descant on the furniture of
the brain, or the qualities of the mind. No; mr. arbiter, little as you
may think of him is too wise to attempt any reformation in this matter: I am
merely going to say one or two words more on the hackneyed subject of the
"long-stay", which I suppose must now have reached the climax of
disgusting deformity. I have witnessed the rise and progress of this
monstrous machine with emotions of horror common to all who are interested
about the beauty or health of natures fairest works; and though I have failed
in the endeavor to convince my readers how ugly, how ungraceful, and unbecoming
it is though I cannot persuade them, that it is not beautiful to be bound up
like a barrel, or graceful to be rendered stiff and motionless, I think I shall
be successful in convincing them of the procrustean and leveling power of this
curiously wrought machine. Yes, however alarming it may be, it is
nevertheless true neither the long stay corset nor divorce, can any more become
a distinction of rank, nor a mark for the boundary of the empire of
fashion. The shopkeepers wife, the haberdashers apprentice, nay, even the
common household drudge the servant of all work is now become as fashionably
habited in regard to this article of dress, as the lady of first distinction,
and is equally proud of her stiff back, and her inability to move. Now is
not this alarming? Surely the lady who first introduced this fashion must have
consoled herself with the thought, that is would at least form a distinction in
society, that is its ugliness and inconvenience were such as to render the
general adoption of it impossible. But this has proved to be a fallacious
and deceptive dream; the melancholy facts, which I have recorded above are too
well known to admit of dispute. What is it to be done? A thought has just
occurred to me. Suppose my fashionable readers were to wear the corset
over, instead of under, their other dress it might then be ornamented like the
ancient stomacher, and the divorce would form a noble point for the display of
jewels. Really the more I think of this the more I am pleased with it; it
would be attended with so many advantages not the least of which is, that the
spectator would no longer be in any doubt about the odd shape produced by this
machine;l he would see, at once the coat of mail and how ever it might shock
his feelings, it could go no further, no room would be left for the indulgenced
of imagination. Let my fair readers look to this.
No.
1. Am imperial striped gauze for evening or full dress; which becomingly
ornamented with white or amber beads, thread lace, or narrow wreaths of
flowers.
No.
2. Barrosa lace, for the same order of costume; admitting only trimming of
lace, white beads, or silver; and worn over slips of white satin or sarsnet.
No.
3. An entirely novel printed muslin, entitled the regency plume from the house
of william bowler and son, of king street, cheapside, by whom it is vended to all
the fashionable houses in town and country. The same pattern is to be had
on azure and jonquil grounds. The union of colours is quite unique and
their effect particularly attractive and pleasing; at the same time is a
reasonable price.
No.
4. A mourning printed cambric of an entire new pattern. There needs no
comment on the appropriation of this article which speaks decidedly for itself.
I have never heard of "Barrosa lace" have any of you? I have also recently come across a couple of originals with "white" beads on them, almost encrusting them, and its such a very modern look its surprisng. I also love how many printed fabrics we have seen so far in this journal, and the range of fabrics included. There is no reason, I believe, for there to be any mourning fabric included other than it just is!
I hope you have enjoyed this month, and again I apologize profusely for how delayed it is. I hope all the interesting tidbits have made up for it in spades : ). Please be sure to head over to France, London, and Germany for June, July, and soon August!
I have never heard of "Barrosa lace" have any of you? I have also recently come across a couple of originals with "white" beads on them, almost encrusting them, and its such a very modern look its surprisng. I also love how many printed fabrics we have seen so far in this journal, and the range of fabrics included. There is no reason, I believe, for there to be any mourning fabric included other than it just is!
I hope you have enjoyed this month, and again I apologize profusely for how delayed it is. I hope all the interesting tidbits have made up for it in spades : ). Please be sure to head over to France, London, and Germany for June, July, and soon August!
