Journal Journey into the Year 1811:May Edition, with only some flowers and a lot of rain.

That old addage obviously needs to come up with the times.  Or, if nothing else, find one adapted for the south which is something like "April showers bring May TORNADO SIRENS, TORRENTIAL RAIN, AND DRUNK ASS WEATHER."

Basically.

Anyhow, it has given me a lot of time to do some fun research, and work on this month's edition, which all things considered is rather light!  I think maybe because all of you people who have been reading (if anyone has…) are learning as I am, and terms are becoming more familiar! 

When you are through with Ackermann's be sure to mosey on over to Germany, France, and perhaps come back to England to see what other fashionable's like in the month of May.

On that note, lets go! 

(Editor's opinion: This first dres is UH-GA-LEE. Seriously, why. ) 

Plate 30 - A ball or full dress

A roman robe of pink crape, worn over white gossamer satin.  A long spanish slashed sleeve (1), with an antique cuff of fine net late; horizontal stripe front, with a quilling (2) of fine net round the bosom.  The slashes of the sleeve filled with folds of white satin, and their terminations finished with silver filigree, or mother of pearl buttons.  A cestus of white satin, with correspondent clasp and broach.  Hair in waved curls, confined round the head with a wreath of persian roses, separated in the center of the forehead.  Neck-chain and cross of peruvian gold ear-drops of the same.  An occasional scarf of paris net, starred with silver.  White satin slippers, ornamented with pink rosettes.  White gloves of french kid; and fan of spangled crape.

Plate 31 - Opera Dress

A white muslin robe, with long sleeves.  An algerine (3) tunic of white satin, trimmed round the bottom and bosom with net or silver fringe, simply confined in the center with a regency broach.  A turkish cloak (4), or short coat, with arm holes, composed of plain indian muslin, similar with the robe, and lined with cerulean blue sarsnet; trimmed round the back and down each side with broad lace, put on very full.  The cloak thrown open in front, so as to exhibit the tunic and under robe.  A helmet cap, composed of silver net and spangles, ornamented with a cluster of the labrador roses (5) in front.  A treble neck-chain and ear-rings of elastic indian gold (6).  Gloves and shoes of white kid.

Child's dress

A short frock and trowsers of plain indian muslin, trimmed with thread lace, or flounces of the same.  A short french tunic coat of white sarsnet or camrbic, with full arched collar, tied at the throat with a silk cord and tassels, and the bottom trimmed with lace, similar to that which ornaments the frock and trowsers.  White kid gloves and slippers, hair a tufted crop. (7)

1.  To those who read Pride and Prejudice, you will be amused to remember the line where Mrs. Bennet mentions how happy she is to hear the news about long sleeves, even for evening.  The exact quote escapes me, but PnP was published in 1811, so this if a fun nod.

2.  Quilling is defined as a type of ornamental craftwork involving the shaping of paper, fabric, or glass into delicate pleats or folds.  In this case I am supposing lace is used. 

3 and 4.  It seems that in the month of May we are back to the adoration of Middle Eastern styles after our tryst with Mexico. Fashions come and go so quickly! 

5.  

6.  In  some perusing of earlier years for a completely unrelated subject, I found a couple of difference references to "Elastic" to describe jewelry.  I am assuming it is because it is formed of such a specific material and style to be almost spring like.  I can't really picture it but I feel like I have seen something similar in modern day. 

7. I find it interesting that this is non gender specific! Both boys and girls up to a certain age wore clothes that were exactly the same, trousers and dresses.

Twentieth letter from a young lady in london to her sister in the country

…We are just relieved from a week of penance, occasioned by a visit from a sprig of rusticity, in the shape of a country miss, who arrived heavy laden with sentiment and sophistry.  She drawled out her die-away nonsense till she made our men sick; and moralized on rural pleasures, the simple elegance of the primrose, the retiring sweetness of the violet, the pensive remoteness of the valley lily, and the harmony and innocence of the children of the grove, till our only refuge, like that of Massena, was an abrupt retreat; in which, however, we desire no further to resemble this doughty general, our intention being to conquer, but not to destroy.  My dear sister, were I to comply with the sum total of your requests, I should fill a quire, instead of a sheet of paper, so much variety every where prevails.(1)  My time here is not at my own disposal, nor is my mind so unoccupied as to leave my heart at leisure to expose its absurdities.  In the country, on the contrary, your hearts seem to take the reins instead of your understandings; and your sentiment and sensations make fools of you all.  You may rail as you will against our London amusements, but I am sure there is more danger in the neighborhood of groves, grottos, and crustal streams.  

Thus much in reply to the contents of your last.  And now that I am entered on the dinner-hour, let me hasten to recommend to you (in lieu of those general remarks I am accustomed to afford) a publication at this time in much request, and which possesses much unique merit.  It is entitled The Mirror of the Graces, the English Ladie's Costume (2).  You will really be pleased with the book.  It contains dissertations on the different orders of female attire and personal recommendation; and exhibits a very strong specimen of that talent which can so dress matters of comparatively light import, as not only to render them instructive and amusing, but at the same time to make them the vehicles of morality and virtue.  This book teaches the art of combining a delicate taste with a correct judgement, without either aiding our vanities, or infringing on our duties.  You may find some fault with the incongruity of colouring exhibited in the otherwise fashionable specimens given in the engravings which accompany this work; but I really think it is its only fault, and certainly it is one which requires no very extraordinary effort of judgment to perceive and to alter: for no English woman would permit a primrose mantle and bonnet to be lined with pink, when violet, purple, and even celestial blue offer a contrast so evidently superior (3).  Read this work, Constance, with attention it is really excellent of its order.

After what I haver said on this subject, you will not expect, or find requisite, any lengthened description of general fashions, particularly as I send, for our friend Charlotte, a regular set of articles of the most novel introduction.  She must, you know, have fashion at any rate, or i should not approve of the glaring union of gold-coloured and crimson exhibited in the regency bonnet and wellington wrap (4), which is now considered the very pink of the mode.  This, however, is in some degree atoned for by the spirit of true loyalty which actuated the design.  You will, I am sure, turn your gently beaming eye from this too glaring combination to the extreme delicacy of the white crape tunic, bordered with violets in foil (5), and which you will see is attached to a white satin under-robe, and jewelry ornaments of diversified gems.  Coloured sarsnet spencers (6), and demi length pelisses are much in request; they are alternately ornamented with lace, feather trimming, crape borders formed in small leaves, or shaded chenille.  For the style of walking dress, ball costume, etc.  I refer you to the specimens which I propose shall accompany this; and in extreme haste i fly to my toilet begging you to believe me ever your faithful friend and sister.

p.s.  Before I purchase your suit of pearl, i wish you to see a few samples (by way of guide to your choice) of such as stand foremost in point of elegance of design and fashionable execution: therefore in addition to the engraving forwarded with my last packet, I here beg leave to mention a suit I have just seen, fresh from the hands of the same manufacturer, j.k. barlow.  They consist of an entire suit, most tastefully combining the vine-leaf and grape, united with a tendril chain.  I must leave to yourself, dear constance, the choice of so elegant and costly and ornament; yet, I cannot but add, that I have seen none which excel those introduced by this jeweler in elegance of design, nor any which equal them in easiness and cheapness.  Once, more dear sister, fare thee well.

1. I recently just had this conversation with a friend about how DIFFERENT everything was in this period, how much variety and variation there was.  It seems our fashionable female knows it as well!

2.  If you have not read this book, I highly suggest it.  You can read it for free on google books!  

3.  It is a great testament to this publication that the whip tongued authoress and authority on fashion   praises it so highly, aside from her differing tastes on the coloring of the garments described ; ).

4.  I am not sure what they mean by a wellington wrap, but I have heard such a description about other garments later.  Given her mention of "loyalty" I guess it has to do with our famous Wellington who makes his name well known through history in five years time from this publication. 

5.  I may be wrong here but I think "violets in foil" means appliquéd very fine metal flowers. How beautiful!

6.  I am making a personal note for myself everytime Sarsnet Spencers are mentioned. 

No. 1:  A beautiful pamorette, or rainbow imperial net (1), calculated for the evening robe, or dinner party; it is worn over white satin or sarsnet.  We have not seen any article of the order which exceeds this in attractive elegance.  It combines all the light gracefulness of the gauze with the durability of the sarsnet, and is every way worthy of that distinction which it has obtained among our females of rank and fashion.

No. 2: An elegant white figured twill sarsnet for full dress. There needs little comment on this delicate article; robes of which must be made plain, trimmed with lace, silver, or narrow artificial wreaths of flowers (2).  Some ladies will add to the robe a bib and apron of white crape (3), spangled or bound with silver, with tassels to correspond. Coloured or variegated ornaments appear particularly adapted to robed of this article.

No. 3:  A royal regency striped muslin, brought our by the house of Millard in Cheapside.  This article comprises at once utility, neatness, and fashion; is calculated for the summer pelisse, as well as for the superior order of dress (4).  Amidst the pleasing variety of superb indian shawls and beautiful imitations of the same (5), now on sale at this celebrated warehouse are now some grey and black shawls and scarfs, adapted for such of the nobilities and ladies who have occasion for mourning habits.  We understand a new style of shawl has recently been introduced by this establishment, which reflects great credit on our manufacturers. 

No. 4:  A purple sea-weed grounded cambric, calculated for the morning and domestic costume.  The delicacy of pattern and fastness of colour (6) which this article possesses, are a sufficient recommendation to such ladies as prefer coloured morning robes.  There are a few females to whom it will be unacceptable. 

1.  I just wanted to mark this by saying oooohh shiny. 

2. Hey.  For all you nay sayers.  This is not a new thing. 

3. Ok, this threw me for a second since I just spend some time hunting down the secret to the "apron front gowns" or " bib front". It also helped to solve the "stomacher" mystery! When they say that they mean the bodice portion of what we call an "apron" or "bib" front. At least, that is so far what I have established.  That might change.  Anyway, decorative aprons are a thing, and I believe they are referring to the apron having a bodice portion too.  You see one in 1814. 

4. Superior order of dress refers to evening up to full. 

5.  Oh this is so adorable.  They may try to talk up their products, but all fashionable females knew a knock off and imitation shawl when they saw one, and you were sure to be snubbed due to it.  But hey, this warehouse needs to make money. 

6. Apparently 200 years is too long for it to remain "color fast." Bless.  But this is another reason to READ THE PUBLICATION. colors fade and discolor over time. 

This is a very short month, so lucky you! Stay tuned for next month when we start getting summer fashions.  Though nothing like what we need to wear here in the states, I am sure!

Journal Journey into the year 1811: April Showers bring May Flowers, or time to blog.

Good morning all! It is still morning for me right? Yes. Good. April is here, and though it is late in coming, here is your fourth edition to journal journey into the year 1811! April has some amazing treats in store, so I hope that you enjoy and read from beginning to end.  You shan't be disappointed, I promise! I will be doing some things a little differently, so hang on to your hats.  I suppose sometime I ought to post about something else, but I am a busy lady, and it is still a miracle I post this much! Ha.
But once you are through with Ackermann, perhaps you will find some interest in Germany, or perhaps France, or maybe even other English fashions!

I left the picture unreasonably large for you…think of it like incentive ;)

 Plate 25 - Walking dress or promenade costume. A cossack coat, or short pelisse, of violet coloured sarsnet, lined with white persian, and trimmed entirely around with an indian border of feathers. A woodland hat, composed of the same materials, with a small angola feather in front.

Underdress- a high round robe of jaconot muslin, ornamented at the feet, and on the bosom, with needlework or lace; a full frill of the latter round the throat. Half-boots of violet kid; and gloves a pale tan colour.

This one is relatively self explanatory, the only thing that is a little fuzzy is the "indian border of feathers." What remains in question is what do they mean by INDIAN border? Are the feathers from india? Or is the style Indian? My guess is the materials, it looks like maribou! 

 Plate 24 - A ball dress of amber-colored crape, worn over a white satin slip, embroidered entirely round and up the front with a border of blended lilies and persian robes in chenille; short sleeve; and long gloves of french kid.

Neck-chain and drop of indian gold; ear-rings to correspond. Hair in waved curls in front. White satin sandal-slippers, tied with green ribbon round the ankle. Fan of carved ivory.

Another pretty self explanatory garment, it is odd how short the descriptions are! What a disappointment. Remember the Sandal-Slippers, though, they come up again later.

Our fair readers are here presented with a delineation of a complete suite of pearls for full dress, being the most elegant ornament we have ever seen. It consists of a necklace, sprig, bracelets, tops and drops, and three broaches, two of which can be worn as a pair of clasps. The sprig is so contrived as to fix on a comb and the centers play on springs. The net work of the necklace which forms a collar and the delicacy of the pearls, which agree with all complexions, give it the happiest effect.

How fantastic is this insight into jewlery of the period! It even is so detailed as to show the way that the necklace and bracelets clasped.  If I had any skill in making jewlery, I would recreate this in a second. Interesting that the sprig is on springs, what would the purpose be? Perhaps to make it smaller or larger? I can imagine how magnificent this looks all in person in its described gems.  Pearls are always most becoming.

No. 1 and 2. A furniture print of unique elegance, from the extensive and select warehouse of mr. allen, no. 61, pall-mall. It is but justice to the taste and perseverance of mr. allen, to observe that no house in this extensive metropolis furnishes such choice and elegant articles in this line, nor on such moderate terms. Our correspondents either in town or country, may safely refer to his warehouse for whatever is elegant and fashionable in his line.

Again, it is important to read the descriptions attached to the plates, for the first one is another furniture print! How horrid would it be to sport a gown made out of sofa cushions, or bed curtains? Tricky, though, as it is very similar to a kind of  "shawl print", popular for the intermediate order of dress.

No. 3. A light and seasonable article from millard's, in the city; whose warehouse exhibits the most convincing specimens of fashion, taste, and invention. For the morning wrap, the peasant's jacket, and simple high gown, the present article is particularly adapted. At this house is exhibited the regency spotted muslin, on beautiful bottilla grounds, calculated for morning dresses; and which recommend themselves particularly, from this peculiar pliancy and gracefulness of the folds. A new style of doyle, with rich and elegant designs, adapted for dinner and supper parties, has been recently introduced by this house. A superior article of this description has long been wanting and we are convinced the public will take advantage of its appearance, from the comfortable association it presents to dinner and fashionable soupees.

First off, if you know me, you know that I completely lost my mind when I saw this.  MUSTARD. POLKA. DOTS. Truly, this brought me no small amount of joy. Pay attention also to the "regency spot" which must be the Regent's new favorite item, a charming polka dot. I also have not been able to find what on earth "Bottilla"  or "Doyle" is! I've looked in books and the googles, and no one will relinquish their secrets.  Any help on this would be much appreciated. 

no. 4 a delicate shawl print, calculated for the intermediate style of costume. the plain round robe, or simple grecian wrap, is the only form in which this article can be disposed to advantage. Lace or muslin collars, frills or trimming are alone admissible with dresses of this article. It is sold by Messrs. T and J. Smith, tavistock-street, covent-garden.

Another kind of shawl print, which is very delightful and garish. It is so busy, I find it surprisng that they are suggesting any kind of trim, but simple plain white might work well. 

Hang on tight, this is going to be a long one, but VERY interesting!

Portman Square

March 29. 1811

Here I am, my dearly beloved sister, once more arrived safe and sound - all admiration and all amazement at the elegance of our newly decorated mansion, which, during out absence, has undergone a complete metamorphosis, as far as fresh paint, fashionable furniture, and splendid embellishments, can accomplish.  I have this moment caught myself in a most superb roman mirror.  Heavens! How Gothic,(1) how grotesque is my appearance, compared to the elegantes who pass in charming rattling array around the square! I fly instantly to the chinese boudoir, shut myself close from all stylish enquirers - dispatch a message to my milliner (2), muse silently while he is gone, and wonder he is not back, before he can possibly be halfway there.  A delightful thundering rap rouses me from my reverie.  I listen! It is my Lord _____, the dashing widower of whip-club notoriety.  I hasten towards the drawing-room - again catch a glimpse of my figure as I pass, and again retreat in dismay.  I throw myself on a lovely grecian couch, composed of pink satin, and wonder how a few weeks vegetation in the country can so completely have altered my tout-ensemble.  Again I listen! I hear my Lord's voice in stylish debate - how delightfully slang his accent! How tantalizing that I cannot show myself! I must see him at all events.  I start from my silky station, and kick down a beautiful exotic in my nervous agitation.  Never mind! I hate flowers - they only serve to remind one of the stupid country.  A fashionable bang of the house door. Vexation! My Lord just gone!

A mean suspicious plebeian tap at the door of the boudoir.  Oh! it is the milliner with splendid budget of auxiliaries, arrived very a propos to give turn to my thoughts (3).  I hasted to try their effects.  Dear Constance! How exquisitely becoming! How uniquely elegant! I am restored to myself, and am now finish my letter in a beautiful swiss jacket (4) and petticoat, formed of blush colored muslin (5), with the regency spot. (6) It is laced in front of the bosom with sarsnet ribbon of the same color, and trimmed round the bottom, bosom, and straps with indian silk binding (7). The long sleeve is very full, with a deep antique lace cuff.  I have half-boots of blossom colored kid (8), and a simple parisian mob of fine lace, extended over my hair, and confined under the chin; the whole exhibiting the most becoming morning or carriage costume I have ever seen for a length of time.  I have chosen for you a cossack coat, or short pelisse, (9) of bright primrose sarsnet, (10) which is trimmed with an indian border, composed of shaded curled feathers, (11) and as a suitable appendage, ordered the mexican casque (12), or indian helmet-cap (13), decorated with the same most unique and fashionable ornaments.  Spencers of sarsnet (14) are much worn, trimmed also with feathered borders, collars and cuffs of the same.  They are likewise considered select and elegant when formed without collars, with falls of lace round the throat, or high fluted ruffs, and borders of lace laid flat on the edges.  The cossack coat takes place of the long pelisse, which although comfortable, compact, and elegant, does not claim any attention on the score of fashionable distinction.  the only ones worthy of notice, are those formed with military frog fronts, confined down the front of the figure with the same ornaments; or in the loose robe style, with a trimming of broad lace on one side.  Lace is more introduced than ever in every order of costume.  Dress robes of satin or sarsnet are seldom without this elegant appendage.  Coloured crapes, lenoes, gauzes, and nets, with worked borders in gold, silver, or coloured chenille, and worn over white satin slips, are amidst the most attractive and select articles for full dress.  White robes are not very general, except for the morning or domestic habits (15). Short sleeves and demi trained are very general in the evening robed; except in the ball room - where they are invariably short, exhibiting much on the ancle and foot, which are decorated with the grecian laced sandal (16), the color corresponding or agreeably contrasted, with the border or colour of the dress.  No caps are seen in full dress on young women, but the hair in full curls, or otherwise fancifully disposed in the grecian and eastern style, and ornamented with gems or flowers.  To the morning dress, however (and, indeed, with the intermediate order of costume), they must ever be considered a becoming and appropriate appendage.(17)  The old English mob, the indian feather cap, french foundling, and grecian nightcap, are the only wearable articles admitted by us fashionable females.  There is so great a variety in bonnets, that preserve but the style, and you cannot be out of fashion.  The persian helmet and mexican turban (18) are the only articles of novelty in this line.  As I seldom am abroad but in the carriage, I should pay bit little attention to this article but on your account, my sage sister.  I simply throw over my hair a morning mob, a spanish mantilla veil, which is an elegant shade, and becoming softener of the countenance.  For your sake, however, my eyes wander to the fair and modest pedestrian; and, in consequence, I have ordered you a small Gipsey chip, turned up behind, and tied under the chin, an angola feather in front.  This you will preserve for your morning calls of scandal or converse, and for your own park you may still wear your small cottage with a large square veil thrown entirely over it. These simple bonnets are considered now more genteel with a flower or feather.  The grecian wrap, with falling collar, trimmed entirely round with a narrow flounce, or frills of muslin; and the peasant's gown and swiss jacket, already treated of, are the most distinguished articles for morning wear.  Boots and shows admit of no remarks, as they exhibit no novelty.  The same may nearly be observed of jewelry, except that ornaments of cut steel and mother of pearls, delicately carved and set in gold, are at once neat, fashionable, and select. Adieu! My sister and friend! My next commune on this head will bear a more decided character.  Till then, and for ever, believe me your affectionate,

Belinda. 

(1) By her description it seems that the Gothic is no longer as universally loved as the previous month. 

(2) Milliner, in this instance, is being described as more than just a hat maker.  In this period a milliner covered more of the clothing of a person than just their head.

(3) Said milliner has brought as it says "auxiliaries" which in this instance can mean one of two things. Either the items brought were a collection of back up garments made using our fair authoresses measurements, or garments brought to help our poor fair authoress in her sartorial snafu. Either way, it means that this particular milliner has brought with them a ready-made ensemble with trimmings completed. 

(4) 

Our lady here in the blue is wearing what is described as a "Flemish" jacket, but in the description given by Belinda, we can infer it was very much the same garment, though with wider sleeves. 

(5) "Blush" is generally used to describe a soft pale pink with a nude or tannish hue.

(6) Again we refer to the regency spot, as is described in the "Allegorical Woodcuts" above with our swatches.  Imagine the mustard in a pale pinkish.

(7)  Very likely called such because the silk is coming from India. 

(8) "Blossom" colored is also a pink, but darker and more saturated than blush.

(9) For an image of said garment, look to the first fashion plate.

(10) Primrose in this instance is not pink like we would think of today but a yellow color, generally pale and light. 

(11) A more detailed description of the trimming also seen in the first fashion plate.

(12) I spent hours digging for Mexican military uniforms to no avail, what fuzzy images I could find of battles from the war were sub par, but seemed to resemble a shako.  A "casque" as far as I know is a military inspired hat.*

(13) Similar to above, though I can find nothing, really.

(14) I made note of this for mostly my own satisfaction, considering the quantity of crossbar sarsnet in a lovely cinnamon color that I intended for spencers. 

(15) The prevailing "re enactorism" myth that everyone wore white all through this period can now hopefully be put to bed.  Early on, yes, it can be very well proven to be the case, but when we reach more into the tens and teens it is very evident that there were so many other choices, and they were worn so much more frequently than the ubiquitous white gown. 

(16) Be sure to look back to the second fashion plate of a visual of this.  American Duchess's Highbury shoe is exactly what is being described. 

(17) Thankfully I am still considered a young woman, though I am married, and do not have to wear a cap, though as it says for morning and sometimes under a bonnet is not a bad idea.  Caps were good for hiding a hair still set in curlers for the evening.

(18) A mexican turban would likely look something very similar to this: *

Both men shown with the head wrapping are Jose Maria Morelos, a prominent figure in the first Mexican war of independance.



* Suddenly Mexican fashions became popular because at the beginning of 1811 the FIRST Mexican war for independance from Spain was underway.  England had an interest in this due to their dislike of Spain and Spain's allegiance to France during the Napoleonic wars (off and on.)  Special thanks to Michael Ramsey for his nudging in the right direction whilst insulting me and threatening to draw a moustache on my face with a sharpie because I threw it at him. 



WHEW!! What a month of fascinating information!! I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did, I have learned so much in this edition, but what I also learned a thousand more questions came up, leading me to dig and do even more hunting about little facts.  Stay tuned for next month, and maybe eventually a post about something else! Don't hold your breath, though :).

Journal Journey into the year 1811; Spring is Marching toward us!

Ha, get it? March, Spring, har har. Here in Tennessee it has been a laugh, even worse in Virginia and the east coast where I spent the last two weeks, for the Millinery through Time conference (more on that later) and general travel.  Thus explains my tardiness, forgive me! It is still March, though, and if you have not yet, do take yourself to Germany, France, and the other fashions of England! 

Lucky for you, you will be treated to lots of fun pictures in this edition!  Here we go. 

Plate 17 - Carriage or Promenade Costume

A round high morning gown, with long sleeves and fluted collar (1) , composed of sprigged jaconot muslin (2) with border of needlework at the feet.  A robe pelisse or loose wrapping coat (3), of spanish lambs wool cloth; the color pomona green (4):  One side of the coat trimmed with a broad black lace, gathered into a winged collar in the center of the throat.  A regency cap (5), composed of white satin and lace.  A crowned veil (6) of fine black lace, partially shading the face, and falling towards the left side.  Half-boots of green cloth and gloves of pale tan-coloured kid.

Plate 18 - Opera Dress

A simple french frock of white gossamer satin-sarsnet (7), or crape, with a short sleeve, edged at its several terminations with narrow silver braiding (8). Cestus (9) and clasp to suit.  A short roman tunic coat (10), of pale amber-shot sarsnet, or velvet, with short standing collar, trimmed down each side with broad white lace.  The coat thrown open in front of the figure. Necklace and earrings of pearl, or mocho stone (11).  Hair in waved curls in front, simply confined on the crown of the head with a pearl or other ornamental comb.  Slippers the same as the coat, with small silver clasps.  Gloves of white kid. 

1. The term "fluted" means a zig zag pleat that does not overlap, usually achieved with a mechanism that looks like gears, heated and the fabric is pressed through it. Use a lot of starch. 

2. A jaconot or jaconet muslin is a smooth slightly stiff form of muslin, named for its source in Jagganth, India which is now Puri.  Sprigged refers to a pattern woven or embroidered all over it on a small scale (dots, flowers, etc.)

3. "Robe Pelisse" is sort of self explained by "loose wrapping coat" which means it has little to no structure. Much like the surviving example thought to be Jane Austens with the oak leaf printed on silk.

4. Pamona green is similar to today's "Spring" Green, a bright shade close to a Granny smith apple.  One of my favorites.

5. Again we see something being described as "Regency ____".  Perhaps it is meant to describe something that is a favorite of the Regent, whether it be trim, fabric, or garment.  

6. Interesting to add any structure to a veil but i guess this sort of bridges the odd gap between veil and cap. I find it to be rather hideous..

7.  A sarsnet with a satin weave

8. This brings to mind a short sleeve with something like a mameluke look, with the phrase "several terminations."  What are your thoughts?

9.  A cestus means a belt. 

10.  Very similar to a wrapping coat, or robe pelisse, it seems to have no shape but is just short instead of full length like in the carriage costume.

11.  In my searching I have found nothing about "Mocho Stone" but "Mocha stone" is the same as Moss Agate. 

General Observations:

The long continued mourning, and the unvarying costume consequently upon it, has rendered almost unnecessary the structures of Arbiter Elegantiarum; but, if his majesty should speedily recover (of which there is now an immediate prospect) (1) it will give an additional zest to the introduction of coloured dresses (2), and make the gay season of spring still more lively and animating: and as a reaction, after so long a suspension, may, probably, lead to extremes, I
doubt not, that the ladies will furnish me sufficient subject for animadversion. (3)

Simplicity in all arts is the maturity of study and the perfection of taste: small is the number of those who attain it, and when attained it meets with but few to feel and appreciate its excellence.  The flowery nonsense of Hervey (James Hervey 26 February 1714 – 25 December 1758) finds more admirers among the multitude, than the manly simplicity of Paley; (William Paley July 1743 – 25 May 1805)  and the sonorous periods of Johnson (Samuel Johnson 18 September 1709 – 13 December 1784) are read with more avidity, than Addison’s (Joseph Addison 1 May 1672 – 17 June 1719) correct and chastened essays.  The splendid bravura of Rubens (4), and the insipid bustle of Peter Cortona, (5) are more congenial to the taste of the multitude than the exquisite sentiment of Rafaelle (6), or the simple grandeur of Poussin (7); and, I fear, the monstrous forms, discordant colours, and ostentatious displays of ornament which distinguishes the dresses of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, (8) are really more admired by ladies in their hearts, than the pure taste and modest elegance of the grecian costume.

I am induced to make this remark by the disposition which hate lately manifested itself among many ladies to enter again upon all the horrors of long waists (9), in spite of the anathema's of taste, in opposite to the physicians, and in defiance of the disgust which ALL MEN feel at the sight of the straightened and unnatural appearance.  Oh! that I could convince my fair readers of this truth; that I could prove to them, that by adopting this mode of dress, they effectually destroy every thing that is lovely, or love inspiring in their form and movements.  Then might I have some hope of reforming this strange propensity.  That grace cannot exist without ease, one should suppose self evident; and that motion must be impeded, and health destroyed by rigid confinement in steel and whalebone, equally so (10).  But what is self evident to every one else, is unintelligible to minds blinded by prejudice and fashion and those without the pale can only wonder at the force of the delusion.

There is a story in Bulver's pedigree of the english gallant not very foreign to our purpose, and as the book is scarce, it may, without impropriety, find a place here.  When Sir Peter Wych was ambassador to the Grand Seignior from King James the First, his lady was with him at Constantinople; and the Sultaness, having heard much of her, desired to see her; where upon Lady Wych, accompanied with her waiting women, all of them neatly dressed in their vardingales (11), which was the court-dress of the English ladies of that time, waited upon her highness.  The Sultaness received them with great respect but wondering much at the narrowness of her waist and the extension of her hips, enquired if that monstrous shape was peculiar to the women of England to which the lady replied, that the English women did not differ in shape from those of other countries, and by explaining the nature of the dress, convinced the Sultaness, that she and her companions were not really so dreadfully deformed as they appeared to be. 

1.  This latest bout of George's illness would be his final, and he would never recover, allowing the Regency to permanently take place until he became king. 

2.  By 1811 we are seeing a bigger surge of colored gowns for any mode of dress, the modern thought that all Empire gowns were white is very inaccurate in this year.  

3.  Webesters dictionary defines this funny word as: "a critical and usually censorious remark".  This guy has some 'tude.

4.  

Rubens

Rubens

5.  

Cortona

Cortona

6. 

Raphael

Raphael

7. 

Poussin

Poussin

8. Here we are beginning to see the surge of the "gothic" era which leads into the "romantic" era. As the century moves from its first decade into its second (1810  and on) the grecian styles fall away. 

9. Our sharp tongued Arbiter is referring to the shape of the stays worn by women in this period. Here is a good insight to their shape, though it is being described through the eyes of someone who dislikes them so.

10. I believe the reference to steel is meant to describe the "divorce" mechanism which causes the bust to separate, I have seen it described with springs as well. Whalebone would be used for the basic boning.

11. A hilarious 19th century bastardization of "Farthingale".  By this time it would be a wagon wheel, or french, farthingale made popular late in Elizabeth the 1st reign, and lasted until after her death. 

No. 1 and 2 
A bright permanent Morone (1) printed cambric (2), calculated for the intermediate order of dress (3).  This print will admit of repeated washing, without any detriment to its colours. Round dresses and wraps of this article should be constructed quite plain, or with lace cuffs and frills.  

No. 3 
A green figured shot sarsnet, adapted for robes, spencers, pelisses, and mantles.  The trimmings appropriate to this article are, fancy chinese floss (4), indian gimp (5), and thread lace (6).  Jewelry ornaments must consist of diamonds, pearl, satin bead, or white cornelian (7). 

No. 4
A beautiful regency shot sarsnet (8), a most fashionable article, for the same purposes as described in no. 3. The regency helmet cap (9), composed of white velvet or satin, and ornamented with the prince's plume of white feathers (10), is an appropriate and becoming head-dress with robes of this attractive material. 

1. Marone is a reddish brown or burgundy color.  You will remember it from last month's edition of La Belle Assemblee, which predicts for the next month, so it seems this color was popular in March. 

2.  Very likely by this time the Camrbic is Cotton, instead of linen, though it could be both. 

3.  "Intermediate order of dress" generally means what you would wear for the day; walking or promenade gown, or even carriage dress.  It is more dressed than your morning clothing, and less dressy than your opera, evening, or ball dress.

4.  I have no reference or idea what they mean by "fancy chinese floss"  If anyone has any ideas, please share!

5.  I know what a gimp looks like, but I cannot fathom what makes it "indian" gimp.  Perhaps where it came from? Color choices? 

6.  After having spent some amazing time perusing the collections at Colonial Williamsburg and picking the brain of the incomparable Linda Baumgarten, the mystery of "thread lace" has become clear to me.  It is a bobbin style lace made of linen thread! 

7.  Cornelian or Carnelian, is a quartz stone that is generally reddish.  Ergo, white cornelian is a white quartz stone.

8 and 9.  Another description using "regency".  Perhaps these were colors the Regency liked?

Whew! Some fantastic little insights into the period and its fashion, no?  Tune in next month for April, and hopefully a delicious taste of spring, I, for one, am so tired of freezing my little buns off! 

Journal Journey into the Year 1811; Feburary Edition!

Good morning my devoted and fellow historic fashion lovers! It is that super exciting time again where we delve into the top four fashion publications of the period!  I hear exciting things are happening in france with Alessandra, Germany with Sabine, and the other tastes of England with Natalie!  I know for my part February holds some VERY interesting tidbits and tastes which we can see through the plate and their descriptions but also through a wonderously detailed letter from our lover of fashion, Belinda.

Lets get to it!  I want to  note first that this is one of my favorite fashion plates of all time, and one day I wish to recreate it.

She is just so coy, and cozy!

Plate 11: Promenade or Carriage Costume.

A military coat or pelisse (1) of amber-colored velvet, or merino cloth (2), with Spanish cuffs (3), and high fluted collar, trimmed entirely round with astracan fur.  A round tippet of the same, and ridicule composed of the same material as the coat.  An algerine helmet cap (4) of the same, blended with astracan fur, ornamented in front with an amber crescent and chain of silver.  Gloves a pale tan color and half-boots of amber coloured kid.

1) This one is rather obvious but I wanted to point out the same what can be defined as "military", which is the braiding across the front.  I find it insteresting it isn't defined what makes the braiding in this caption, but given the other things I have been able to see in this publication I can make an educated guess for "chinese cord" I would also like to make note that the term "COAT" and "PELISSE" are used together to describe essentially the same garment.

2) Merino cloth, as is beautiful warm, soft, yummy, merino wool made from the sheep bearing the same name.  If you have ever felt merino wool, you know this would be IDEAL in February. 

3) If you look at her cuffs, they look very like pointed Cavalier style cuffs, which I suppose one things of  in this period as "spanish".  

4) Her hat is absolutely delightful, and very middle eastern looking.  The googles, and my book Textiles in America also mention that Algerian is a kind of woolen cloth, but it is not a fabric term until the late 1870s, fyi.  So, in this instance, they mean a garment out of Algeria - which makes sense given its very middle eastern/African looking roots, though the ornament on the front is very Turkish. 

Plate 12:  Evening or opera dresses.

First figure - A round robe (1) of white crape (2) or muslin with demi trained and imperial winged frill (3) of plaited lace.  A circassian laced bodice (4) of American Green velvet (5), trimmed with Chinese cord (6), and confined at the bottom of the waist with a mother-of-pearl clasp.  An Armenian head-dress (7) composed of white satin, with silver antique ornamented in front.  Necklace consisting of a single row of large pearls with a cross of the same, suspended in the center bosom; the cuffs of the long sleeve ornamented with pearl.  An Eastern mantle (8) of amber-coloured velvet, trimmed with swansdown.  Shoes of velvet, the same as the bodice.  Gloves, white kid.

Second Figure - A grecian frock (9) of celestial blue, or silver grey net, with full long sleeve, and biassed bosom (10); ornamented round the bottom and bosom with a vandyke border, composed of white velvet and beads; deep antique cuffs of the same.  The robe worn over an under-dress of white satin.  Head-dress composed of a french net veil (11), confined and ornamented in front of the forehead with a tiara of silver.  Necklace and cross of white cornelian and gold earrings to correspond.  Carmelite cloak (12), of light purple or violet velvet, lined and bordered with white ermine.  Blue kid slippers, with silver clasps; and gloves of white kid.

1) As talked about in the last edition, a "round robe" is a gown closed in front or back, but goes all the way "round" the body to meet in either front or back.  We will see it VERY often through our various publications.  It is generally a term to describe "a dress" that has nothing special to it.  

2) Crape with this spelling is defined in Textiles in America as 'A light transparent stuff, in the manner of gauze; made of raw silk, gummed and twisted on the mill, wove without crossing and mushc used in mourning'.  It can also be noted that by this time, the early 19th century, there were new kinds of crape coming out; being woven with other materials such as wool.  

3) Have you seen this thing? It is amazing.  One can assume it is called "imperial" because it is huge. Also, it was used frequently by Empress Josephine, and IMHO she was pretty Impreial.  This one is composed of lace, but others were of various fabrics, typically light weight to hold this shape with a ton of starch.

4) Here we see this term Circassian again. We, unfortunately, cannot see her bodice, but the term "Cricassian" is defined by the Googles as a 'Native inhabitant of Circassia' which is a region in the south Russian Federation, bordering the black sea.  So, in your minds eye, or using the googles, try to imagine Eastern European "folkish" style and then put a bastardized English spin on it.  

5) This one stumped me, but at the same time seemed so simple.  Could it be so simple that it is just a green velvet imported by America? Or is there something more to it to make it "American Velvet."  Do they mean the color is American?  If you have any knowlede or input, please feel free to share in the comments!

6) Here is a term we will see again later down in the post, the term Chinese Cord.  My thinking is that it has nothing to do with China other than the silk coming from China to make up the cord.  And, it sounds fancy.

7) Here we have yet ANOTHER style of head-wear that is vaguely Middle Eastern.  I am sensing a trend here.  This plus the first plates "Algerine" cap with very Turkish ornament on the front gives the hint for a very Middle East friendly month.  Does anyone know, history wise, what was happening with England in the Middle East and Africa in 1811?  This may shed some light on the trends.

8) They didn't even try to put a reigon down for this number, just "middle eastern."  A mantle in this instance is being used to describe what lookes like a rather shapeless shorter cape or cloak with no hood.

9) Here is the term "Grecian Frock" again, and yet, we cannot see any details of the gown to see what specifically makes it "Grecian." The hunt continues.  

10) I am not sure what they mean by this term, perhaps it is cut on the bias for styles' sake? 

11) It is very likely that this net was produced in france, and it is describing the net, not the shape of the veil.

12) This one excited me by its sleuthing becuse its a twofer! A Carmelite is an order of friars founded at  Mt Carmel in PALESTINE! Again, middle easter influences!  Also, it brings to mind a "Capuchin" cloak, or hood, which means a second garment inspired by a religious order.  Romantic, much?

WHEW! What a lot of text to read!  Have you made it this far?  Congratulations!  We are only halfway done.  I know, right? For making it this far, here is an insanely adorable picture of my cat, Arthur. 

He sleeps like this a lot.

Ok, ready to go back into it?  Here we go with one of my favorite things to read in Ackermanns, the Letters!

Eighteenth Letter from a Young Lady in London, to Her Sister in the Country.

[…] And so you really are engaged to two balls in February, and want to be instructed how best to array yourself for these important occasions!  You are right in supposing that you must appear in slight mourning at the first and in colors (if you please) at the second (1).  I will do my possibles to enable you to shine as the venus of the season which you may the more safely do with your faithful Jupiter as your attendant.  To this end, I have ordered you two dresses.  The first, a black frock of gossamer gauze (2), thickly studded with small cut steel beads; border and stomacher (3) to correspond.  You must wear over it a slip of white satin, its texture being too clear to admit of its being extended over an under garment of less lustre.  Your head ornaments are a cut steel bandeau and star (4).  Your earrings, necklace, and bracelets may either consist of diamonds, pearl, or the satin bead (5).  Your shoes are a simple white satin slipper, with cut steel clasps.  Your gloves, white French kid.  Your fan, carved ivory, with steel studs.  This dress, I propose for your first ball, which you say will be very splendid.  Your second dress I have chosen of bright amber crape (6).  Its construction, a Grecian Frock (7); the gore seams (8), bottom bosom, and sleeves ornamented in a delicate border of blended white beads and bugles.  You may wear it either over a white cambric (9) or white satin slip, with your pearl or gold ornaments.  I have ordered a diadem of leaves, formed in white velvet, tranced with gold, and a broach and clasp of pearl.  You will, of course, wear white gloves and shoes.

I shall now give you a few general observations, and then bid you good night.  Every order of grey and lead colour blends with black sarsnet, velvet, muslin, nets, white crape, and leno (10), since a change of mourning has taken place.  Robes (11) of grey muslin, embosses or twill sarsnet (12), black muslin or net, over white; black velvet with pearl, beads or steel ornaments, with falls of fine lace round the bosom and silver grey cloth robes (13), trimmed with velvet of the same colour, add to the pleasing variety which this style of mourning admits of; and will of course continue till the 11th of February (14), when the period of these public testimonies of regret expires.  Coloured robes, pelisses, and mantles of every description, will the again emerge.  Royal Purple (15), amber and silver grey pelisses and mantles will, it is supposed, be most fashionable, composed of sarsnet or of fine cloth, trimmed with velvet, chinese silk cord (16), or the Astracan fur.  This latter article is eminently fashionable, and is used for decorating robes.  Robes of white crape, trimmed with borders of white bugles or steel, and worn over coloured satin under-dresses are considered as elegant and select.  The Algerine robe and vest is, however, the most novel style of habit which is not introduced.  It consists of an embroidered vest and short petticoat of white satin, over which is a loose flowing robe, with long turkish sleeves, composed of azure net, or crape, starred with silver. (17)  A silver diadem and star composed the head dress.  A silver cestus embraces the waist; and sandal slippers of blue satin finish this splendid, but unique costume, which however is too singularly attractive to be generally adopted.  Feathers are worn in spanish hats (18) of satin or velvet in evening dress; but the hair in full dress is more universal: it is now divided in front of the forehead, falling in curls on each side of the face, rather lower at the ears than has been observed for some months past.  Fancy hats of cloth (19), the same as the pelisse, trimmed with astracan fur, or ornamented with feathers, blend with the old english helmet (20) and algerine turban (21); the latter of which we have just received from our milliners.  There is nothing particularly new in jewelry, nor in the more humble orders of dress; therefore you will go on very well till my next, when i shall be able to give you from ocular demonstration, a more full account of those colours and articles which shall have received the stamp of fashion distinction.  Adieu! In haste, but ever your,
Belinda

1) See notation no. 14

2) See definition for gauze above and then spice it up with the term "gossamer" which infers it to be ever thinner and more delicate as well as loosely woven.

3) Here is that term stomacher again! Still no word on what they mean by that, or what I can imagine it to be.  My thinking is still the flap of a drop front, or apron front gown which I have seen described as a "stomacher dress."  If you have any ideas, please feel free to share in the comments! 

4)  It seems that for mourning and for winter cut steel is very fashionable.  It is a good thing, considering I have a very fetching cut steel buckle I am keen to use. 

5) Still no idea what a "satin bead" is.  If you know, you know what to do! COMMENT!

6) The color Amber is THE color to wear it seems this month, and will be mentioned again later in the letter.  Also, this shows that crape did not have to be necessarily black or white, but came in colors.

7) Here we are with the term Grecian Frock, but no way not to see anything.  This term puzzles me and I am very desirous to know what they mean.

8) Wait, WHAT?! Decorating the "gore seams"? What on earth do they mean by "gore seams"?!  On the skirt, on the bodice? Where are there gore seams on this kind of gown?! INPUT!

9) Cambric is described in Textiles in America as 'A fine white linen cloth in a plain weave.'  Which I find disagreeing with what I always understood cambric to be, which was a slightly sized and stiffened cotton of a fine weave. Thoughts?

10) Leno is defined as 'A gauze weave in which warp yarns arranged in pairs cross and recross one another between pricks of weft.  A structure in which rows or aeas of gauze weave are separated by, or combined with, areas of plain weave. ' Neat!

11) Here we see the term "robe" used just to describe a plain dress.  Perhaps it was fashionable to do so, because of the desire for grecian influence. 

12) Embossed or Twill Sarsnet, in other words a sarsnet with a twill weave and then embossed using hot copper plates, so I have been informed by books.  

13)  Gowns made out of wool! Its February, people, no one likes to be cold!

14) Here the period for mourning Princess Amelia has come to an end, though court continued it longer. 

15) Royal Purple; not just any color of purple but the shade used most frequently by royalty.  There seems to be no longer a sumptuary law about this.

16) Here we see that Chinese Silk Cord again, making it a little more clear that they are referencing the material, not the item. 

17) WOW! An entire garment of a middle eastern flair, throwing a few different places together.  What a neat fashion, though I wish I had a right proper image for it. We see the vests here and again, but no really good surviving examples.  Perhaps it was too avante guarde for those of more simple means to waste their money on. 

18) I remember the term spanish hat from last month, I believe, but still no clue about what makes it Spanish.  The materials, or the shape?

19) Why..is it fancy?

20) Another mystery.  What is an old English Helmet?  Shako? Something that looks like a conquistador helmet? I am grasping at straws here.

21) Here we see again the Algerine term, this time for a turban, which I assume looks like the helmet in the promenade plate but turban style. How fetching.


You made it again!  Congratulations! We are almost done, I promise.  but haven't you enjoyed this? So much fun information! Here is another adorable picture of my cat for a reward.

Next up, we have one of the most important things Ackermann ever included for us researchers, and that is the fabric swatches!

No. 1 and 2.  A rich furniture chintz for drawing-rooms, bourdoirs, and sleeping rooms (1).  This lively and elegant article was designed by Mr. Allen, of Pall Mall, for the bed room furniture of his royal highness the prince of wales, at carlton-house.  It is there most tastefully displayed, lined with silk, and fringe to correspond:  but glazed calico linings (2), of blue, green, or pink, are used for general wear.

No. 3.  A bright orange shot satin (3), for dress robes, tunics, and bodices.  Trimmings of thread lace, white beads, and fancy floss (4), are alone appropriate with this article;  with jewelry ornaments of diamonds, pearl, the satin bead, or white cornelian.

No. 4.  A regency velvet (5), of an uncommonly delicate fabric.  This attractive article is adapted for pelisses, evening robes, and mantles.  Every species of white trimming is alone suitable as decorations for garments of this material.  White crape long sleeves over short ones of white satin (6), with silver embroidered cestus, and white satin slippers, are delicate softeners to robed of this brilliant artcile.  it is sold (with the satin before mentioned) at messrs. Harris, Moody, and col's, Pall Mall.

1) This is why it is VERY IMPORTANT to read the descriptions that go with the swatches instead of just assuming "oh look a pretty gown chintz".  Not all of the items here are for wearing.  These are for BED CURTAINS. No one wants to wear bed curtains, unless you are Scarlet. 

2) Very similar to the Chintzes of old, or a stiff polished cotton.

3) This is a good example to show that shot is like a changeable.  If you look closely at the top you can see orange threads poking out.  But could they also mean the embroidery through it?  You decide.

4) I have never heard of the term fancy floss.  Could it be similar to fly fringe?

5) This is the second time I have seen "regency" ___ used to describe fabric.  Perhaps it is made in honor of the prince Regent, and bears his name in hopes he will patronize the establishment who created it.

6)  Think about this description.  Does it not bring to mind something very 1830s?  Looser long sleeves of a sheer material over an opaque short sleeve.  How charming to keep ones arms  A BIT more warm in February. 


That is everything fashion wise from February!!  What can we take away from this month's delicious array of garments?  Amber seems to be the hot color for the month, as well as anything and everything Middle Eastern.  I must do some hunting around to see what, politically, is happening in England to create such a desire for such fashions.

Be sure to head over to France to see what is happening in their fashionable world, as well as Germany.  Perhaps our partner in England can shine some light on the tastes of the month that I do not have!

Tune in next month to see what the first hints of spring will bring! I don't know about the rest of you, but I am ready for it - Tornado season or no!