Journal Journey through the year 1811: June; A seriously delayed entry.

Its two moths behind, I know, I know. Summer time is very busy in the Robert's household, with sewing and events back to back its hard to find time to write!

In any case, here is June!

Plate 36: Promenade Costume.

A round robe of plain jaconot muslin, with a border of needle-work at the feet. A roman coat (1)  of violet shot sarsnet, with pointed cape, binding and tassels of jonquil (2) silk.  A parisian cap of sarsnet, same as the pelisse, ornamented with a broad braid of jonquil silk, and a fancy flower (3) placed towards the left side.  A veil of fine what lace, thrown negligently over the head-dress shading the throat (4), and falling on the shoulders.  Half-boots of violet kid or french kid.  Gloves of jonquil kid.

A round high walking dress of fine oblique corded muslin (5), with high arched collar, trimmed with a narrow full edging of muslin or plain net lace, and finished with the feet with narrow tucks.  A roman helmet (6) of sea green sarsnet, caught up in the center of the forehead.  A grecian drapery scarf of sea green sarsnet, parasol to correspond. Shoes of similar colored kid.  Blossom-colored reticule and primrose or pale tan gloves. (7)

(1)   It seems that roman I influences have become fashionable again; almost as if it is a fashionable standby if there is nothing else exciting and novel to call upon.

(2)   Jonquil is a shade of yellow

(3)   I have never seen this term “fancy flower” before and have yet to see it again. Any ideas from onlookers?

(4)   The term “negligently” in this makes me laugh. During this period women would often spend hours at their dressing table in a practice called “studies negligence”, the art form of making it look as though you are so fashionable you can throw anything on and not worry too much about how it looked, though there was a very fine line in it looking good, or shabby and TOO studied.

(5)   "Oblique" means generally not straight, not parallel or perpendicular. So the cords are at an angle. 

(6)   See also number one

Plate 37: Description of five head-dresses.

No. 1, on the left at top.  The beehive hat of lemon-colored chip, or pearl straw, with small angola feather waving in front.  This hat, it should be remembered, seems exclusively to belong to the very youthful female.

No. 2, on the right at top.  A promenade head-dress, consisting of a simple cottage bonnet of white satin, ornamented with a persian rose in front.  A long mantilla veil, of white lace, thrown entirely over the whole.  

No. 3, in the center.  An evening head-dress, composed of the antique or old English fly-cap, formed of crimson shot silk, finished at the edge with two rows of fine pearls or beads, and a star or small rosette in front.  None but the white robe can display this unique and elegant head-dress to advantage. 

No. 4, on the left at bottom.  The hamlet hat of straw or chip, tied under the chin with white ribbon, and ornamented with two curled ostrich feathers, waving towards one side.  This head dress belongs to the morning or walking costume.

No. 5, on the right at bottom.  A carriage head-dress. A full band of turban muslin, sitting close to the side of the face.  A flemish bonnet of white satin, edged with a raised chenille border and ornamented in front with small jonquil flower.  This head-dress is at once unique, fashionable, and simply elegant. 

It was really great to have this in my journal this month.  Hats in french magazines are very popularly made, but it is harder to find them in English publications. These are really a great selection too, really up my alley. I have also discovered that in reading these at least for 1811, carriage dress really hardly calls for a hat, which I suppose makes perfect sense - you are not promenading, and sometimes space is at a premium, so a big hat or hat at all is not necessary, but some sort of head covering it; a turban, a veil, a cap, whatever.  It is also interesting to see an age requirement on a garment, much like today, in mention to the "beehive" hat. I wonder how youthful they mean because I have one similar :p. The one thing I am not clear on is what is a "fly-cap?" If any of my readers might have an idea, do let me know! 

General observations

The fashionable world, at present, displays an appearance more consonant with our best feelings and more agreeable to the eye of taste, than it has latterly been accustomed to do.  From the close morning dress to the airy attire of the ball room everything is simple and interesting, and nothing can exceed the beauty of the mode of dressing the hair, or the propriety and prettiness of all the ornaments of the head.  This general eulogium however, requires qualification.  What is here said, related to externals only.  Externals! I think I hear my fair readers claim.  What airs is Mr. Arbiter Elegantiarum going to give himself now? In the name of every thing female and fashionable, what has he to do with anything but externals? Do not be alarmed, my gentle friends; I am not going to descant on the furniture of the brain, or the qualities of the mind.  No; mr. arbiter, little as you may think of him is too wise to attempt any reformation in this matter: I am merely going to say one or two words more on the hackneyed subject of the "long-stay", which I suppose must now have reached the climax of disgusting deformity.  I have witnessed the rise and progress of this monstrous machine with emotions of horror common to all who are interested about the beauty or health of natures fairest works; and though I have failed in the endeavor to convince my readers how ugly, how ungraceful, and unbecoming it is though I cannot persuade them, that it is not beautiful to be bound up like a barrel, or graceful to be rendered stiff and motionless, I think I shall be successful in convincing them of the procrustean and leveling power of this curiously wrought machine.  Yes, however alarming it may be, it is nevertheless true neither the long stay corset nor divorce, can any more become a distinction  of rank, nor a mark for the boundary of the empire of fashion.  The shopkeepers wife, the haberdashers apprentice, nay, even the common household drudge the servant of all work is now become as fashionably habited in regard to this article of dress, as the lady of first distinction, and is equally proud of her stiff back, and her inability to move.  Now is not this alarming? Surely the lady who first introduced this fashion must have consoled herself with the thought, that is would at least form a distinction in society, that is its ugliness and inconvenience were such as to render the general adoption of it impossible.  But this has proved to be a fallacious and deceptive dream; the melancholy facts, which I have recorded above are too well known to admit of dispute.  What is it to be done? A thought has just occurred to me.  Suppose my fashionable readers were to wear the corset over, instead of under, their other dress it might then be ornamented like the ancient stomacher, and the divorce would form a noble point for the display of jewels.  Really the more I think of this the more I am pleased with it; it would be attended with so many advantages not the least of which is, that the spectator would no longer be in any doubt about the odd shape produced by this machine;l he would see, at once the coat of mail and how ever it might shock his feelings, it could go no further, no room would be left for the indulgenced of imagination.  Let my fair readers look to this.

This was the best thing about this month! Another mention of stays! As a clothing historian and living historian the more we can uncover about unmentionables, the better! What I find so funny is our fashion adviser who is a man, just hates stays, and I can easily wonder why, I am sure like any man he was a great big fan of loose boobies everywhere. Easy access, etc. etc. Crass, but I am sure not too far from the truth.  I can also understand a bit of a distaste for the "divorce" device. It sounds rather uncomfortable, and a different piece than the busk itself! I would love to be able to find out more.  I was also giddy to see the mention of even servants wearing stays, which if he is being serious and this is a true statement, blows the assumption out of the water. To my mind it has always made sense, but there are, of course, nay sayers. I would love to discuss more on stays, if you have any ideas, please share them in the comments!

No. 1.  Am imperial striped gauze for evening or full dress; which becomingly ornamented with white or amber beads, thread lace, or narrow wreaths of flowers.

No. 2. Barrosa lace, for the same order of costume; admitting only trimming of lace, white beads, or silver; and worn over slips of white satin or sarsnet.

No. 3. An entirely novel printed muslin, entitled the regency plume from the house of william bowler and son, of king street, cheapside, by whom it is vended to all the fashionable houses in town and country.  The same pattern is to be had on azure and jonquil grounds.  The union of colours is quite unique and their effect particularly attractive and pleasing; at the same time is a reasonable price.

No. 4. A mourning printed cambric of an entire new pattern.  There needs no comment on the appropriation of this article which speaks decidedly for itself.

I have never heard of "Barrosa lace" have any of you? I have also recently come across a couple of originals with "white" beads on them, almost encrusting them, and its such a very modern look its surprisng. I also love how many printed fabrics we have seen so far in this journal, and the range of fabrics included. There is no reason, I believe, for there to be any mourning fabric included other than it just is! 

I hope you have enjoyed this month, and again I apologize profusely for how delayed it is.  I hope all the interesting tidbits have made up for it in spades : ). Please be sure to head over to France, London, and Germany for June, July, and soon August! 

Journal Journey into the Year 1811:May Edition, with only some flowers and a lot of rain.

That old addage obviously needs to come up with the times.  Or, if nothing else, find one adapted for the south which is something like "April showers bring May TORNADO SIRENS, TORRENTIAL RAIN, AND DRUNK ASS WEATHER."

Basically.

Anyhow, it has given me a lot of time to do some fun research, and work on this month's edition, which all things considered is rather light!  I think maybe because all of you people who have been reading (if anyone has…) are learning as I am, and terms are becoming more familiar! 

When you are through with Ackermann's be sure to mosey on over to Germany, France, and perhaps come back to England to see what other fashionable's like in the month of May.

On that note, lets go! 

(Editor's opinion: This first dres is UH-GA-LEE. Seriously, why. ) 

Plate 30 - A ball or full dress

A roman robe of pink crape, worn over white gossamer satin.  A long spanish slashed sleeve (1), with an antique cuff of fine net late; horizontal stripe front, with a quilling (2) of fine net round the bosom.  The slashes of the sleeve filled with folds of white satin, and their terminations finished with silver filigree, or mother of pearl buttons.  A cestus of white satin, with correspondent clasp and broach.  Hair in waved curls, confined round the head with a wreath of persian roses, separated in the center of the forehead.  Neck-chain and cross of peruvian gold ear-drops of the same.  An occasional scarf of paris net, starred with silver.  White satin slippers, ornamented with pink rosettes.  White gloves of french kid; and fan of spangled crape.

Plate 31 - Opera Dress

A white muslin robe, with long sleeves.  An algerine (3) tunic of white satin, trimmed round the bottom and bosom with net or silver fringe, simply confined in the center with a regency broach.  A turkish cloak (4), or short coat, with arm holes, composed of plain indian muslin, similar with the robe, and lined with cerulean blue sarsnet; trimmed round the back and down each side with broad lace, put on very full.  The cloak thrown open in front, so as to exhibit the tunic and under robe.  A helmet cap, composed of silver net and spangles, ornamented with a cluster of the labrador roses (5) in front.  A treble neck-chain and ear-rings of elastic indian gold (6).  Gloves and shoes of white kid.

Child's dress

A short frock and trowsers of plain indian muslin, trimmed with thread lace, or flounces of the same.  A short french tunic coat of white sarsnet or camrbic, with full arched collar, tied at the throat with a silk cord and tassels, and the bottom trimmed with lace, similar to that which ornaments the frock and trowsers.  White kid gloves and slippers, hair a tufted crop. (7)

1.  To those who read Pride and Prejudice, you will be amused to remember the line where Mrs. Bennet mentions how happy she is to hear the news about long sleeves, even for evening.  The exact quote escapes me, but PnP was published in 1811, so this if a fun nod.

2.  Quilling is defined as a type of ornamental craftwork involving the shaping of paper, fabric, or glass into delicate pleats or folds.  In this case I am supposing lace is used. 

3 and 4.  It seems that in the month of May we are back to the adoration of Middle Eastern styles after our tryst with Mexico. Fashions come and go so quickly! 

5.  

6.  In  some perusing of earlier years for a completely unrelated subject, I found a couple of difference references to "Elastic" to describe jewelry.  I am assuming it is because it is formed of such a specific material and style to be almost spring like.  I can't really picture it but I feel like I have seen something similar in modern day. 

7. I find it interesting that this is non gender specific! Both boys and girls up to a certain age wore clothes that were exactly the same, trousers and dresses.

Twentieth letter from a young lady in london to her sister in the country

…We are just relieved from a week of penance, occasioned by a visit from a sprig of rusticity, in the shape of a country miss, who arrived heavy laden with sentiment and sophistry.  She drawled out her die-away nonsense till she made our men sick; and moralized on rural pleasures, the simple elegance of the primrose, the retiring sweetness of the violet, the pensive remoteness of the valley lily, and the harmony and innocence of the children of the grove, till our only refuge, like that of Massena, was an abrupt retreat; in which, however, we desire no further to resemble this doughty general, our intention being to conquer, but not to destroy.  My dear sister, were I to comply with the sum total of your requests, I should fill a quire, instead of a sheet of paper, so much variety every where prevails.(1)  My time here is not at my own disposal, nor is my mind so unoccupied as to leave my heart at leisure to expose its absurdities.  In the country, on the contrary, your hearts seem to take the reins instead of your understandings; and your sentiment and sensations make fools of you all.  You may rail as you will against our London amusements, but I am sure there is more danger in the neighborhood of groves, grottos, and crustal streams.  

Thus much in reply to the contents of your last.  And now that I am entered on the dinner-hour, let me hasten to recommend to you (in lieu of those general remarks I am accustomed to afford) a publication at this time in much request, and which possesses much unique merit.  It is entitled The Mirror of the Graces, the English Ladie's Costume (2).  You will really be pleased with the book.  It contains dissertations on the different orders of female attire and personal recommendation; and exhibits a very strong specimen of that talent which can so dress matters of comparatively light import, as not only to render them instructive and amusing, but at the same time to make them the vehicles of morality and virtue.  This book teaches the art of combining a delicate taste with a correct judgement, without either aiding our vanities, or infringing on our duties.  You may find some fault with the incongruity of colouring exhibited in the otherwise fashionable specimens given in the engravings which accompany this work; but I really think it is its only fault, and certainly it is one which requires no very extraordinary effort of judgment to perceive and to alter: for no English woman would permit a primrose mantle and bonnet to be lined with pink, when violet, purple, and even celestial blue offer a contrast so evidently superior (3).  Read this work, Constance, with attention it is really excellent of its order.

After what I haver said on this subject, you will not expect, or find requisite, any lengthened description of general fashions, particularly as I send, for our friend Charlotte, a regular set of articles of the most novel introduction.  She must, you know, have fashion at any rate, or i should not approve of the glaring union of gold-coloured and crimson exhibited in the regency bonnet and wellington wrap (4), which is now considered the very pink of the mode.  This, however, is in some degree atoned for by the spirit of true loyalty which actuated the design.  You will, I am sure, turn your gently beaming eye from this too glaring combination to the extreme delicacy of the white crape tunic, bordered with violets in foil (5), and which you will see is attached to a white satin under-robe, and jewelry ornaments of diversified gems.  Coloured sarsnet spencers (6), and demi length pelisses are much in request; they are alternately ornamented with lace, feather trimming, crape borders formed in small leaves, or shaded chenille.  For the style of walking dress, ball costume, etc.  I refer you to the specimens which I propose shall accompany this; and in extreme haste i fly to my toilet begging you to believe me ever your faithful friend and sister.

p.s.  Before I purchase your suit of pearl, i wish you to see a few samples (by way of guide to your choice) of such as stand foremost in point of elegance of design and fashionable execution: therefore in addition to the engraving forwarded with my last packet, I here beg leave to mention a suit I have just seen, fresh from the hands of the same manufacturer, j.k. barlow.  They consist of an entire suit, most tastefully combining the vine-leaf and grape, united with a tendril chain.  I must leave to yourself, dear constance, the choice of so elegant and costly and ornament; yet, I cannot but add, that I have seen none which excel those introduced by this jeweler in elegance of design, nor any which equal them in easiness and cheapness.  Once, more dear sister, fare thee well.

1. I recently just had this conversation with a friend about how DIFFERENT everything was in this period, how much variety and variation there was.  It seems our fashionable female knows it as well!

2.  If you have not read this book, I highly suggest it.  You can read it for free on google books!  

3.  It is a great testament to this publication that the whip tongued authoress and authority on fashion   praises it so highly, aside from her differing tastes on the coloring of the garments described ; ).

4.  I am not sure what they mean by a wellington wrap, but I have heard such a description about other garments later.  Given her mention of "loyalty" I guess it has to do with our famous Wellington who makes his name well known through history in five years time from this publication. 

5.  I may be wrong here but I think "violets in foil" means appliquéd very fine metal flowers. How beautiful!

6.  I am making a personal note for myself everytime Sarsnet Spencers are mentioned. 

No. 1:  A beautiful pamorette, or rainbow imperial net (1), calculated for the evening robe, or dinner party; it is worn over white satin or sarsnet.  We have not seen any article of the order which exceeds this in attractive elegance.  It combines all the light gracefulness of the gauze with the durability of the sarsnet, and is every way worthy of that distinction which it has obtained among our females of rank and fashion.

No. 2: An elegant white figured twill sarsnet for full dress. There needs little comment on this delicate article; robes of which must be made plain, trimmed with lace, silver, or narrow artificial wreaths of flowers (2).  Some ladies will add to the robe a bib and apron of white crape (3), spangled or bound with silver, with tassels to correspond. Coloured or variegated ornaments appear particularly adapted to robed of this article.

No. 3:  A royal regency striped muslin, brought our by the house of Millard in Cheapside.  This article comprises at once utility, neatness, and fashion; is calculated for the summer pelisse, as well as for the superior order of dress (4).  Amidst the pleasing variety of superb indian shawls and beautiful imitations of the same (5), now on sale at this celebrated warehouse are now some grey and black shawls and scarfs, adapted for such of the nobilities and ladies who have occasion for mourning habits.  We understand a new style of shawl has recently been introduced by this establishment, which reflects great credit on our manufacturers. 

No. 4:  A purple sea-weed grounded cambric, calculated for the morning and domestic costume.  The delicacy of pattern and fastness of colour (6) which this article possesses, are a sufficient recommendation to such ladies as prefer coloured morning robes.  There are a few females to whom it will be unacceptable. 

1.  I just wanted to mark this by saying oooohh shiny. 

2. Hey.  For all you nay sayers.  This is not a new thing. 

3. Ok, this threw me for a second since I just spend some time hunting down the secret to the "apron front gowns" or " bib front". It also helped to solve the "stomacher" mystery! When they say that they mean the bodice portion of what we call an "apron" or "bib" front. At least, that is so far what I have established.  That might change.  Anyway, decorative aprons are a thing, and I believe they are referring to the apron having a bodice portion too.  You see one in 1814. 

4. Superior order of dress refers to evening up to full. 

5.  Oh this is so adorable.  They may try to talk up their products, but all fashionable females knew a knock off and imitation shawl when they saw one, and you were sure to be snubbed due to it.  But hey, this warehouse needs to make money. 

6. Apparently 200 years is too long for it to remain "color fast." Bless.  But this is another reason to READ THE PUBLICATION. colors fade and discolor over time. 

This is a very short month, so lucky you! Stay tuned for next month when we start getting summer fashions.  Though nothing like what we need to wear here in the states, I am sure!

Journal Journey into the year 1811: April Showers bring May Flowers, or time to blog.

Good morning all! It is still morning for me right? Yes. Good. April is here, and though it is late in coming, here is your fourth edition to journal journey into the year 1811! April has some amazing treats in store, so I hope that you enjoy and read from beginning to end.  You shan't be disappointed, I promise! I will be doing some things a little differently, so hang on to your hats.  I suppose sometime I ought to post about something else, but I am a busy lady, and it is still a miracle I post this much! Ha.
But once you are through with Ackermann, perhaps you will find some interest in Germany, or perhaps France, or maybe even other English fashions!

I left the picture unreasonably large for you…think of it like incentive ;)

 Plate 25 - Walking dress or promenade costume. A cossack coat, or short pelisse, of violet coloured sarsnet, lined with white persian, and trimmed entirely around with an indian border of feathers. A woodland hat, composed of the same materials, with a small angola feather in front.

Underdress- a high round robe of jaconot muslin, ornamented at the feet, and on the bosom, with needlework or lace; a full frill of the latter round the throat. Half-boots of violet kid; and gloves a pale tan colour.

This one is relatively self explanatory, the only thing that is a little fuzzy is the "indian border of feathers." What remains in question is what do they mean by INDIAN border? Are the feathers from india? Or is the style Indian? My guess is the materials, it looks like maribou! 

 Plate 24 - A ball dress of amber-colored crape, worn over a white satin slip, embroidered entirely round and up the front with a border of blended lilies and persian robes in chenille; short sleeve; and long gloves of french kid.

Neck-chain and drop of indian gold; ear-rings to correspond. Hair in waved curls in front. White satin sandal-slippers, tied with green ribbon round the ankle. Fan of carved ivory.

Another pretty self explanatory garment, it is odd how short the descriptions are! What a disappointment. Remember the Sandal-Slippers, though, they come up again later.

Our fair readers are here presented with a delineation of a complete suite of pearls for full dress, being the most elegant ornament we have ever seen. It consists of a necklace, sprig, bracelets, tops and drops, and three broaches, two of which can be worn as a pair of clasps. The sprig is so contrived as to fix on a comb and the centers play on springs. The net work of the necklace which forms a collar and the delicacy of the pearls, which agree with all complexions, give it the happiest effect.

How fantastic is this insight into jewlery of the period! It even is so detailed as to show the way that the necklace and bracelets clasped.  If I had any skill in making jewlery, I would recreate this in a second. Interesting that the sprig is on springs, what would the purpose be? Perhaps to make it smaller or larger? I can imagine how magnificent this looks all in person in its described gems.  Pearls are always most becoming.

No. 1 and 2. A furniture print of unique elegance, from the extensive and select warehouse of mr. allen, no. 61, pall-mall. It is but justice to the taste and perseverance of mr. allen, to observe that no house in this extensive metropolis furnishes such choice and elegant articles in this line, nor on such moderate terms. Our correspondents either in town or country, may safely refer to his warehouse for whatever is elegant and fashionable in his line.

Again, it is important to read the descriptions attached to the plates, for the first one is another furniture print! How horrid would it be to sport a gown made out of sofa cushions, or bed curtains? Tricky, though, as it is very similar to a kind of  "shawl print", popular for the intermediate order of dress.

No. 3. A light and seasonable article from millard's, in the city; whose warehouse exhibits the most convincing specimens of fashion, taste, and invention. For the morning wrap, the peasant's jacket, and simple high gown, the present article is particularly adapted. At this house is exhibited the regency spotted muslin, on beautiful bottilla grounds, calculated for morning dresses; and which recommend themselves particularly, from this peculiar pliancy and gracefulness of the folds. A new style of doyle, with rich and elegant designs, adapted for dinner and supper parties, has been recently introduced by this house. A superior article of this description has long been wanting and we are convinced the public will take advantage of its appearance, from the comfortable association it presents to dinner and fashionable soupees.

First off, if you know me, you know that I completely lost my mind when I saw this.  MUSTARD. POLKA. DOTS. Truly, this brought me no small amount of joy. Pay attention also to the "regency spot" which must be the Regent's new favorite item, a charming polka dot. I also have not been able to find what on earth "Bottilla"  or "Doyle" is! I've looked in books and the googles, and no one will relinquish their secrets.  Any help on this would be much appreciated. 

no. 4 a delicate shawl print, calculated for the intermediate style of costume. the plain round robe, or simple grecian wrap, is the only form in which this article can be disposed to advantage. Lace or muslin collars, frills or trimming are alone admissible with dresses of this article. It is sold by Messrs. T and J. Smith, tavistock-street, covent-garden.

Another kind of shawl print, which is very delightful and garish. It is so busy, I find it surprisng that they are suggesting any kind of trim, but simple plain white might work well. 

Hang on tight, this is going to be a long one, but VERY interesting!

Portman Square

March 29. 1811

Here I am, my dearly beloved sister, once more arrived safe and sound - all admiration and all amazement at the elegance of our newly decorated mansion, which, during out absence, has undergone a complete metamorphosis, as far as fresh paint, fashionable furniture, and splendid embellishments, can accomplish.  I have this moment caught myself in a most superb roman mirror.  Heavens! How Gothic,(1) how grotesque is my appearance, compared to the elegantes who pass in charming rattling array around the square! I fly instantly to the chinese boudoir, shut myself close from all stylish enquirers - dispatch a message to my milliner (2), muse silently while he is gone, and wonder he is not back, before he can possibly be halfway there.  A delightful thundering rap rouses me from my reverie.  I listen! It is my Lord _____, the dashing widower of whip-club notoriety.  I hasten towards the drawing-room - again catch a glimpse of my figure as I pass, and again retreat in dismay.  I throw myself on a lovely grecian couch, composed of pink satin, and wonder how a few weeks vegetation in the country can so completely have altered my tout-ensemble.  Again I listen! I hear my Lord's voice in stylish debate - how delightfully slang his accent! How tantalizing that I cannot show myself! I must see him at all events.  I start from my silky station, and kick down a beautiful exotic in my nervous agitation.  Never mind! I hate flowers - they only serve to remind one of the stupid country.  A fashionable bang of the house door. Vexation! My Lord just gone!

A mean suspicious plebeian tap at the door of the boudoir.  Oh! it is the milliner with splendid budget of auxiliaries, arrived very a propos to give turn to my thoughts (3).  I hasted to try their effects.  Dear Constance! How exquisitely becoming! How uniquely elegant! I am restored to myself, and am now finish my letter in a beautiful swiss jacket (4) and petticoat, formed of blush colored muslin (5), with the regency spot. (6) It is laced in front of the bosom with sarsnet ribbon of the same color, and trimmed round the bottom, bosom, and straps with indian silk binding (7). The long sleeve is very full, with a deep antique lace cuff.  I have half-boots of blossom colored kid (8), and a simple parisian mob of fine lace, extended over my hair, and confined under the chin; the whole exhibiting the most becoming morning or carriage costume I have ever seen for a length of time.  I have chosen for you a cossack coat, or short pelisse, (9) of bright primrose sarsnet, (10) which is trimmed with an indian border, composed of shaded curled feathers, (11) and as a suitable appendage, ordered the mexican casque (12), or indian helmet-cap (13), decorated with the same most unique and fashionable ornaments.  Spencers of sarsnet (14) are much worn, trimmed also with feathered borders, collars and cuffs of the same.  They are likewise considered select and elegant when formed without collars, with falls of lace round the throat, or high fluted ruffs, and borders of lace laid flat on the edges.  The cossack coat takes place of the long pelisse, which although comfortable, compact, and elegant, does not claim any attention on the score of fashionable distinction.  the only ones worthy of notice, are those formed with military frog fronts, confined down the front of the figure with the same ornaments; or in the loose robe style, with a trimming of broad lace on one side.  Lace is more introduced than ever in every order of costume.  Dress robes of satin or sarsnet are seldom without this elegant appendage.  Coloured crapes, lenoes, gauzes, and nets, with worked borders in gold, silver, or coloured chenille, and worn over white satin slips, are amidst the most attractive and select articles for full dress.  White robes are not very general, except for the morning or domestic habits (15). Short sleeves and demi trained are very general in the evening robed; except in the ball room - where they are invariably short, exhibiting much on the ancle and foot, which are decorated with the grecian laced sandal (16), the color corresponding or agreeably contrasted, with the border or colour of the dress.  No caps are seen in full dress on young women, but the hair in full curls, or otherwise fancifully disposed in the grecian and eastern style, and ornamented with gems or flowers.  To the morning dress, however (and, indeed, with the intermediate order of costume), they must ever be considered a becoming and appropriate appendage.(17)  The old English mob, the indian feather cap, french foundling, and grecian nightcap, are the only wearable articles admitted by us fashionable females.  There is so great a variety in bonnets, that preserve but the style, and you cannot be out of fashion.  The persian helmet and mexican turban (18) are the only articles of novelty in this line.  As I seldom am abroad but in the carriage, I should pay bit little attention to this article but on your account, my sage sister.  I simply throw over my hair a morning mob, a spanish mantilla veil, which is an elegant shade, and becoming softener of the countenance.  For your sake, however, my eyes wander to the fair and modest pedestrian; and, in consequence, I have ordered you a small Gipsey chip, turned up behind, and tied under the chin, an angola feather in front.  This you will preserve for your morning calls of scandal or converse, and for your own park you may still wear your small cottage with a large square veil thrown entirely over it. These simple bonnets are considered now more genteel with a flower or feather.  The grecian wrap, with falling collar, trimmed entirely round with a narrow flounce, or frills of muslin; and the peasant's gown and swiss jacket, already treated of, are the most distinguished articles for morning wear.  Boots and shows admit of no remarks, as they exhibit no novelty.  The same may nearly be observed of jewelry, except that ornaments of cut steel and mother of pearls, delicately carved and set in gold, are at once neat, fashionable, and select. Adieu! My sister and friend! My next commune on this head will bear a more decided character.  Till then, and for ever, believe me your affectionate,

Belinda. 

(1) By her description it seems that the Gothic is no longer as universally loved as the previous month. 

(2) Milliner, in this instance, is being described as more than just a hat maker.  In this period a milliner covered more of the clothing of a person than just their head.

(3) Said milliner has brought as it says "auxiliaries" which in this instance can mean one of two things. Either the items brought were a collection of back up garments made using our fair authoresses measurements, or garments brought to help our poor fair authoress in her sartorial snafu. Either way, it means that this particular milliner has brought with them a ready-made ensemble with trimmings completed. 

(4) 

Our lady here in the blue is wearing what is described as a "Flemish" jacket, but in the description given by Belinda, we can infer it was very much the same garment, though with wider sleeves. 

(5) "Blush" is generally used to describe a soft pale pink with a nude or tannish hue.

(6) Again we refer to the regency spot, as is described in the "Allegorical Woodcuts" above with our swatches.  Imagine the mustard in a pale pinkish.

(7)  Very likely called such because the silk is coming from India. 

(8) "Blossom" colored is also a pink, but darker and more saturated than blush.

(9) For an image of said garment, look to the first fashion plate.

(10) Primrose in this instance is not pink like we would think of today but a yellow color, generally pale and light. 

(11) A more detailed description of the trimming also seen in the first fashion plate.

(12) I spent hours digging for Mexican military uniforms to no avail, what fuzzy images I could find of battles from the war were sub par, but seemed to resemble a shako.  A "casque" as far as I know is a military inspired hat.*

(13) Similar to above, though I can find nothing, really.

(14) I made note of this for mostly my own satisfaction, considering the quantity of crossbar sarsnet in a lovely cinnamon color that I intended for spencers. 

(15) The prevailing "re enactorism" myth that everyone wore white all through this period can now hopefully be put to bed.  Early on, yes, it can be very well proven to be the case, but when we reach more into the tens and teens it is very evident that there were so many other choices, and they were worn so much more frequently than the ubiquitous white gown. 

(16) Be sure to look back to the second fashion plate of a visual of this.  American Duchess's Highbury shoe is exactly what is being described. 

(17) Thankfully I am still considered a young woman, though I am married, and do not have to wear a cap, though as it says for morning and sometimes under a bonnet is not a bad idea.  Caps were good for hiding a hair still set in curlers for the evening.

(18) A mexican turban would likely look something very similar to this: *

Both men shown with the head wrapping are Jose Maria Morelos, a prominent figure in the first Mexican war of independance.



* Suddenly Mexican fashions became popular because at the beginning of 1811 the FIRST Mexican war for independance from Spain was underway.  England had an interest in this due to their dislike of Spain and Spain's allegiance to France during the Napoleonic wars (off and on.)  Special thanks to Michael Ramsey for his nudging in the right direction whilst insulting me and threatening to draw a moustache on my face with a sharpie because I threw it at him. 



WHEW!! What a month of fascinating information!! I hope you enjoyed it as much as I did, I have learned so much in this edition, but what I also learned a thousand more questions came up, leading me to dig and do even more hunting about little facts.  Stay tuned for next month, and maybe eventually a post about something else! Don't hold your breath, though :).

Journal Journey into the year 1811; Spring is Marching toward us!

Ha, get it? March, Spring, har har. Here in Tennessee it has been a laugh, even worse in Virginia and the east coast where I spent the last two weeks, for the Millinery through Time conference (more on that later) and general travel.  Thus explains my tardiness, forgive me! It is still March, though, and if you have not yet, do take yourself to Germany, France, and the other fashions of England! 

Lucky for you, you will be treated to lots of fun pictures in this edition!  Here we go. 

Plate 17 - Carriage or Promenade Costume

A round high morning gown, with long sleeves and fluted collar (1) , composed of sprigged jaconot muslin (2) with border of needlework at the feet.  A robe pelisse or loose wrapping coat (3), of spanish lambs wool cloth; the color pomona green (4):  One side of the coat trimmed with a broad black lace, gathered into a winged collar in the center of the throat.  A regency cap (5), composed of white satin and lace.  A crowned veil (6) of fine black lace, partially shading the face, and falling towards the left side.  Half-boots of green cloth and gloves of pale tan-coloured kid.

Plate 18 - Opera Dress

A simple french frock of white gossamer satin-sarsnet (7), or crape, with a short sleeve, edged at its several terminations with narrow silver braiding (8). Cestus (9) and clasp to suit.  A short roman tunic coat (10), of pale amber-shot sarsnet, or velvet, with short standing collar, trimmed down each side with broad white lace.  The coat thrown open in front of the figure. Necklace and earrings of pearl, or mocho stone (11).  Hair in waved curls in front, simply confined on the crown of the head with a pearl or other ornamental comb.  Slippers the same as the coat, with small silver clasps.  Gloves of white kid. 

1. The term "fluted" means a zig zag pleat that does not overlap, usually achieved with a mechanism that looks like gears, heated and the fabric is pressed through it. Use a lot of starch. 

2. A jaconot or jaconet muslin is a smooth slightly stiff form of muslin, named for its source in Jagganth, India which is now Puri.  Sprigged refers to a pattern woven or embroidered all over it on a small scale (dots, flowers, etc.)

3. "Robe Pelisse" is sort of self explained by "loose wrapping coat" which means it has little to no structure. Much like the surviving example thought to be Jane Austens with the oak leaf printed on silk.

4. Pamona green is similar to today's "Spring" Green, a bright shade close to a Granny smith apple.  One of my favorites.

5. Again we see something being described as "Regency ____".  Perhaps it is meant to describe something that is a favorite of the Regent, whether it be trim, fabric, or garment.  

6. Interesting to add any structure to a veil but i guess this sort of bridges the odd gap between veil and cap. I find it to be rather hideous..

7.  A sarsnet with a satin weave

8. This brings to mind a short sleeve with something like a mameluke look, with the phrase "several terminations."  What are your thoughts?

9.  A cestus means a belt. 

10.  Very similar to a wrapping coat, or robe pelisse, it seems to have no shape but is just short instead of full length like in the carriage costume.

11.  In my searching I have found nothing about "Mocho Stone" but "Mocha stone" is the same as Moss Agate. 

General Observations:

The long continued mourning, and the unvarying costume consequently upon it, has rendered almost unnecessary the structures of Arbiter Elegantiarum; but, if his majesty should speedily recover (of which there is now an immediate prospect) (1) it will give an additional zest to the introduction of coloured dresses (2), and make the gay season of spring still more lively and animating: and as a reaction, after so long a suspension, may, probably, lead to extremes, I
doubt not, that the ladies will furnish me sufficient subject for animadversion. (3)

Simplicity in all arts is the maturity of study and the perfection of taste: small is the number of those who attain it, and when attained it meets with but few to feel and appreciate its excellence.  The flowery nonsense of Hervey (James Hervey 26 February 1714 – 25 December 1758) finds more admirers among the multitude, than the manly simplicity of Paley; (William Paley July 1743 – 25 May 1805)  and the sonorous periods of Johnson (Samuel Johnson 18 September 1709 – 13 December 1784) are read with more avidity, than Addison’s (Joseph Addison 1 May 1672 – 17 June 1719) correct and chastened essays.  The splendid bravura of Rubens (4), and the insipid bustle of Peter Cortona, (5) are more congenial to the taste of the multitude than the exquisite sentiment of Rafaelle (6), or the simple grandeur of Poussin (7); and, I fear, the monstrous forms, discordant colours, and ostentatious displays of ornament which distinguishes the dresses of the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, (8) are really more admired by ladies in their hearts, than the pure taste and modest elegance of the grecian costume.

I am induced to make this remark by the disposition which hate lately manifested itself among many ladies to enter again upon all the horrors of long waists (9), in spite of the anathema's of taste, in opposite to the physicians, and in defiance of the disgust which ALL MEN feel at the sight of the straightened and unnatural appearance.  Oh! that I could convince my fair readers of this truth; that I could prove to them, that by adopting this mode of dress, they effectually destroy every thing that is lovely, or love inspiring in their form and movements.  Then might I have some hope of reforming this strange propensity.  That grace cannot exist without ease, one should suppose self evident; and that motion must be impeded, and health destroyed by rigid confinement in steel and whalebone, equally so (10).  But what is self evident to every one else, is unintelligible to minds blinded by prejudice and fashion and those without the pale can only wonder at the force of the delusion.

There is a story in Bulver's pedigree of the english gallant not very foreign to our purpose, and as the book is scarce, it may, without impropriety, find a place here.  When Sir Peter Wych was ambassador to the Grand Seignior from King James the First, his lady was with him at Constantinople; and the Sultaness, having heard much of her, desired to see her; where upon Lady Wych, accompanied with her waiting women, all of them neatly dressed in their vardingales (11), which was the court-dress of the English ladies of that time, waited upon her highness.  The Sultaness received them with great respect but wondering much at the narrowness of her waist and the extension of her hips, enquired if that monstrous shape was peculiar to the women of England to which the lady replied, that the English women did not differ in shape from those of other countries, and by explaining the nature of the dress, convinced the Sultaness, that she and her companions were not really so dreadfully deformed as they appeared to be. 

1.  This latest bout of George's illness would be his final, and he would never recover, allowing the Regency to permanently take place until he became king. 

2.  By 1811 we are seeing a bigger surge of colored gowns for any mode of dress, the modern thought that all Empire gowns were white is very inaccurate in this year.  

3.  Webesters dictionary defines this funny word as: "a critical and usually censorious remark".  This guy has some 'tude.

4.  

Rubens

Rubens

5.  

Cortona

Cortona

6. 

Raphael

Raphael

7. 

Poussin

Poussin

8. Here we are beginning to see the surge of the "gothic" era which leads into the "romantic" era. As the century moves from its first decade into its second (1810  and on) the grecian styles fall away. 

9. Our sharp tongued Arbiter is referring to the shape of the stays worn by women in this period. Here is a good insight to their shape, though it is being described through the eyes of someone who dislikes them so.

10. I believe the reference to steel is meant to describe the "divorce" mechanism which causes the bust to separate, I have seen it described with springs as well. Whalebone would be used for the basic boning.

11. A hilarious 19th century bastardization of "Farthingale".  By this time it would be a wagon wheel, or french, farthingale made popular late in Elizabeth the 1st reign, and lasted until after her death. 

No. 1 and 2 
A bright permanent Morone (1) printed cambric (2), calculated for the intermediate order of dress (3).  This print will admit of repeated washing, without any detriment to its colours. Round dresses and wraps of this article should be constructed quite plain, or with lace cuffs and frills.  

No. 3 
A green figured shot sarsnet, adapted for robes, spencers, pelisses, and mantles.  The trimmings appropriate to this article are, fancy chinese floss (4), indian gimp (5), and thread lace (6).  Jewelry ornaments must consist of diamonds, pearl, satin bead, or white cornelian (7). 

No. 4
A beautiful regency shot sarsnet (8), a most fashionable article, for the same purposes as described in no. 3. The regency helmet cap (9), composed of white velvet or satin, and ornamented with the prince's plume of white feathers (10), is an appropriate and becoming head-dress with robes of this attractive material. 

1. Marone is a reddish brown or burgundy color.  You will remember it from last month's edition of La Belle Assemblee, which predicts for the next month, so it seems this color was popular in March. 

2.  Very likely by this time the Camrbic is Cotton, instead of linen, though it could be both. 

3.  "Intermediate order of dress" generally means what you would wear for the day; walking or promenade gown, or even carriage dress.  It is more dressed than your morning clothing, and less dressy than your opera, evening, or ball dress.

4.  I have no reference or idea what they mean by "fancy chinese floss"  If anyone has any ideas, please share!

5.  I know what a gimp looks like, but I cannot fathom what makes it "indian" gimp.  Perhaps where it came from? Color choices? 

6.  After having spent some amazing time perusing the collections at Colonial Williamsburg and picking the brain of the incomparable Linda Baumgarten, the mystery of "thread lace" has become clear to me.  It is a bobbin style lace made of linen thread! 

7.  Cornelian or Carnelian, is a quartz stone that is generally reddish.  Ergo, white cornelian is a white quartz stone.

8 and 9.  Another description using "regency".  Perhaps these were colors the Regency liked?

Whew! Some fantastic little insights into the period and its fashion, no?  Tune in next month for April, and hopefully a delicious taste of spring, I, for one, am so tired of freezing my little buns off!